At the beginning of the 20th century all of the major jewellery houses, including Cartier, began to introduce an entirely new palette of colour. Previously unseen tones of cool blue, vivid violet and warm orange appear in a vast variety through the pioneering use of aquamarine, amethyst and citrine in combination with diamonds, platinum and gold. The designs of Cartier London are particularly associated with the use of aquamarine, as demonstrated by the above offered ear pendants. Demand for jewels set with this gem, reached new heights after the then Princess Elizabeth was given a pair of Cartier aquamarine and diamond clip brooches by her parents King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, on the occasion of her 18th birthday in 1944.