Oyster Watch Co. An extremely fine and rare stainless steel and 9K pink gold automatic wristwatch with hooded lugs and bracelet
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT wil… Read more
Oyster Watch Co. An extremely fine and rare stainless steel and 9K pink gold mechanical wristwatch with hooded lugs and bracelet

SIGNED OYSTER PIONEER, CASE NO. 185'246, CIRCA 1935

Details
Oyster Watch Co. An extremely fine and rare stainless steel and 9K pink gold mechanical wristwatch with hooded lugs and bracelet
Signed Oyster Pioneer, case no. 185'246, circa 1935
Cal. 59 mechanical movement, 15 jewels, white matte dial, luminous square, Arabic and baton numerals, outer railway minute divisions, dot minute divisions on gilt track, one sunken engine-turned subsidiary dial for constant seconds, circular case, concave bezel, hooded lugs, stainless steel screw back, screw down crown, 9K pink gold bracelet, Rolex deployant clasp, case, dial and movement signed
32 mm. diam.; overall length of bracelet approx. 195 mm.
Special notice
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT will be charged at 8% on both the premium as well as the hammer price.
Sale room notice
Please notice this watch is mechanical and not automatic as written in the catalogue. Merci de noter que la montre est mécanique et pas automatique comme écrit dans le catalogue.

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Lot Essay

Collectors familiar with vintage timepieces know that the older a watch is, obviously the more worn it will be. Consequently, their expectations in regard to the conservation state of watches are inversely proportional to their age. Two watches in similar condition may be deemed one in very good state, if the watch is half a century old, the other worn, if it is one year old.

This is why when an 80 years old timepiece in condition as remarkable as the present lot is rediscovered, it can be considered a real sensation. Even the layman can immediately appreciate the conservation state of this watch: after 80 years of life, the case is still full, without signs of overpolishing and it fully retains its proportions. The very unusual bracelet does not present any stretch or other kind of damage to the links. The dial is unrestored and absolutely original. A light patina can be noted on the white matte background, while the gilt track is remarkably unspoiled and shines when light falls on it. The luminous material is absolutely original and untouched. It has darkened over the age, but no deficiencies of loss can be noted.

Such an incredible condition allows the beholder to fully appreciate the very unusual and complex construction of the case of this watch: the hooded lugs and convex bezel are echoes of the imaginative style of the 1920s and early thirties, as is the gilt chapter ring and the additional inner red numerals on the dial. More rigorous influences, typical of later watches made in the 1940s, are however present as well, such as the railway minute divisions, and the lack of sectors on the dial.
Icing on the cake are the supremely rare 9K gold case construction, which grants the timepiece a warm glow very close to that of 18K pink gold wristwatches, and the Oyster Watch Co. signature, in use before the adoption of a name slightly more familiar: Rolex.
As a matter of fact, Swiss Timepiece Makers, Vol. II, by Kathleen H. Pritchard, mentions at pageR-67 the existence of a chrome-plated cased watch from 1932 and a pink gold watch from 1933 with cases branded Oyster Watch Co. For another example of Oyster Watch Co., see lot 149.

Another example of this model was sold in this room in November 2014, albeit that later specimen did not feature this unusual dial style, and was branded with the much more common Rolex brand rather than the "Oyster Watch Co." featured on this example.

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