AN ENAMELLED GOLD AND GEM-SET PENDANT
Items which contain rubies or jadeite originating … Read more
AN ENAMELLED GOLD AND GEM-SET PENDANT

APPARENTLY UNMARKED, CIRCA 1580

Details
AN ENAMELLED GOLD AND GEM-SET PENDANT
APPARENTLY UNMARKED, CIRCA 1580
Realistically modelled as a salamander, enamelled in green, off-white and black, the body and tail set with old-cut diamonds and rubies, with suspension ring, with later green velvet covered display stand
the lizard 2 5/8 in. (6.8 cm.) long
Provenance
Phyllis Phillips; Christie's, London, 13 December 1989, lot 407.
Special notice
Items which contain rubies or jadeite originating in Burma (Myanmar) may not be imported into the U.S. Please be advised that a purchasers inability to import any such item into the U.S. or any other country shall not constitute grounds for non-payment or cancellation of the sale. With respect to items that contain any other types of gemstones originating in Burma (e.g., sapphires), such items may be imported into the U.S., provided that the gemstones have been mounted or incorporated into jewellery outside of Burma and provided that the setting is not of a temporary nature (e.g., a string).

Brought to you by

Harriet Bingham
Harriet Bingham

Lot Essay

Phyllis Phillips was a professional artist and passionate collector of antique jewellery. Most of her purchases were made on the London market in the 1950s and 1960s. Her lively personality combined with her artist's eye and remarkable visual memory endeared her to the dealers of antique jewellery at the time. Her collection of Medieval and Renaissance jewellery ranged from a rare Burgundian triptych to a 1st century B.C. cameo, and included an important group of 16th century figurative pendants, represented by the present lot.

The salamander was the emblem of King Francis I of France (r.1515-1547). The reptile's mythical ability to walk through fire and extinguish flames dates to writings by Aristotle and Pliny. These characteristics make the salamander an symbol of endurance (R. J. Knecht, Francis I, Cambridge, 1982, p. 7), but probably most famously, it is emblematic of fire and passion. These symbolic meanings would have been well understood at the time.

A salamander pendant in gold and set with rubies was one of the objects recovered from the 1588 wreckage of the Girona from the Spanish Armada and is illustrated in the exhibition catalogue S. Doran, Elizabeth: the exhibition at the National Maritime Museum. London, 2003, cat. 245. Coincidentally, an earring also recovered from this shipwreck was purchased by Mrs. Phillips from an English family in 1972, and was sold, her sale Christie's, London, 13 December 1989, lot 430. Another salamander pendant, described as Spanish, c. 1600, was with S. J. Phillips, Ltd., London and recorded in G. Munn, Triumph of Love: Jewellery 1530-1900. London; 1993, p. 45. Renaissance pendants in the form of salamanders with baroque pearls as their bodies are in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (no. M.537-1910) and the Museo degli Argenti, Florence.



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