PROBABLY BIKANER, RAJASTHAN, LATE 19TH/ 20TH CENTURY

Details

A GEM-SET ENAMELLED NECKLACE (ARYA)
PROBABLY BIKANER, RAJASTHAN, LATE 19TH/ 20TH CENTURY
The rigid curved collar set with gem stones in an open floral framework, surmounted by a row of seed pearls, strings of tiered gem-set triangular elements suspended below with a fringe of seed pearls, the reverse with floral enamelled decoration in pink and green on gold ground, some restoration
6 1/8in. (15.6cm.) length

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Lot Essay

This impressive rigid collar necklace (also known as adiya or aad) is worn high around the neck, usually by brides or married women at wedding ceremonies in Rajasthan. There is a comparable diamond-set gold arya in the National Museum, New Delhi (inv.no. 90.494, Balakrishnan, 2014, p.109). There are two examples of arya necklaces, probably made in Bikaner and dated to circa 1900, in the Nasser D. Khalili Collection, see P. M. Carvalho, Gems and Jewels of Mughal India, Volume XVIII, The Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic Art, London, 2010, nos. 132, 133, pp. 236 – 239. Another 19th century arya necklace from Bikaner is illustrated in U. Balakrishnan & M.S. Kumar, Dance of the Peacock – Jewellery Traditions of India, Mumbai, 2010, ill.197a & 197b, p.141).

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