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Lot Essay
Very similar panels to the applied tulip-shaped ones on each of the side elements of this belt buckle are found adorning a yoke in the Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg (Washington D.C., 2009, no.61, pp.119-121). The yoke is composed using preserved elements of costly materials that were most probably in the Tsar's treasury, bought there as diplomatic gifts. They are thus dated to the 17th century, providing us with a probable date for this buckle. The form further substantiates the proposed dating as another buckle, very close in shape and dated to the first half of the 17th century, is published in Frankfurt, 1985, cat.,7/5, p.308.
Neither of the above examples is, however, enamelled. Although enamelling very much lends itself to the Ottoman aesthetic which was developing in the 16th century for bold colour - surprisingly this belt buckle presents a rare example of early Ottoman enamel work (Atil, 1988, p.118). That is of course not to say that it is unknown. A writing set in the Hermitage, which was in the inventory of Tsar Fedor Alexevich by 1682, and attributed circa 1660-70, shares a taste for the bright green enamelling found here. Similarly a pectoral icon, attributed to the first half of the 16th century has similar small highlights of bright green very like the inner band on the central boss (Washington D.C., 2009, pp.128-129, no.65).
A very similar belt buckle was sold at Christie’s, London, 13 April 2010, lot 234. Another was sold at Sotheby’s, London, 24 October 2007, lot 269.
Neither of the above examples is, however, enamelled. Although enamelling very much lends itself to the Ottoman aesthetic which was developing in the 16th century for bold colour - surprisingly this belt buckle presents a rare example of early Ottoman enamel work (Atil, 1988, p.118). That is of course not to say that it is unknown. A writing set in the Hermitage, which was in the inventory of Tsar Fedor Alexevich by 1682, and attributed circa 1660-70, shares a taste for the bright green enamelling found here. Similarly a pectoral icon, attributed to the first half of the 16th century has similar small highlights of bright green very like the inner band on the central boss (Washington D.C., 2009, pp.128-129, no.65).
A very similar belt buckle was sold at Christie’s, London, 13 April 2010, lot 234. Another was sold at Sotheby’s, London, 24 October 2007, lot 269.