Howqua's Dragon Robe ('long pao') and Outer Coat ('pu fu') with embroidered rank badge, and undergarment

Howqua's Qing official dress marking his rank and high status as the leading official of the Co-hong. This is his summer robe, his winter robe and outer coat were lined with fur (as worn in the Lamqua portrait, lot 44). The costume was introduced in the mid-17th century when a new style of patterned robe with an embroidered patch on front and back (denoting the wearer's rank) became regulation dress (ming fu). The dragon robes (long pao) 'are mosty blue, but brown, turquoise, orange, yellow and red ones do exist and were predominantly worn by men. ... The salient features are the hem design of stripes representing water with turbulent waves above, repeated on the sleeves at elbow level, and mountain peaks rising from the water, with symmetrically-placed dragons among clouds covering the main body of the garment.' (V. Wilson, Chinese Dress, London, 1986, p.12).