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Lot Essay
The Dials of Nautilus reference 3700/1
Created by Stern Frères, the distinctive striped dials of the Nautilus were entirely hand-made – each line recess is engraved separately. To achieve the aptly named “gray depth of ocean” color specified by Patek Philippe the dials were painted alternately black and blue several times and then covered with a protective “Zapon” varnish. Early examples often display a degradation of the varnish so that depending on how a watch has been stored over the years, an individual dial may have tropicalized more towards either blue, gray, chestnut or green. The present example boasts a very attractive 'tropical dial,' Once the famous "gray depth of ocean” color mentioned above, the dial has transitioned over time and changed color to allow the sought after speckled green/gold color to emerge.
The indexes and hands are made of gold (sometimes erroneously called “steel” on some Extracts from the archives) and filled with luminescent material. The Patek Philippe signature and the outer minute divisions were painted. Below the 6 o’clock index is the word “Swiss” flanked on each side by the “Aprior” mark of two sigma symbols. The Aprior mark was conferred by the “Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or” on dials made of solid gold or at least with solid gold indexes.
Caliber 28-255 C
Generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibers, it was based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 and regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. Crucially it is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120.
The caliber is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21k gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.
The Nautilus Waterproof Case Ref. 3700/1
The case patent design of original Nautilus, reference 3700/1 was registered on 23rd April 1976. Made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crét du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Reunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal. The last three digits of the case number are always stamped on the inside of the bezel. The reference 3700/1 was made in stainless steel, steel and gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold and platinum.
For a detailed information, illustration and description about this reference, see ‘A study of the Patek Philippe ref. 3700 “Nautilus” by Mstanga.
Created by Stern Frères, the distinctive striped dials of the Nautilus were entirely hand-made – each line recess is engraved separately. To achieve the aptly named “gray depth of ocean” color specified by Patek Philippe the dials were painted alternately black and blue several times and then covered with a protective “Zapon” varnish. Early examples often display a degradation of the varnish so that depending on how a watch has been stored over the years, an individual dial may have tropicalized more towards either blue, gray, chestnut or green. The present example boasts a very attractive 'tropical dial,' Once the famous "gray depth of ocean” color mentioned above, the dial has transitioned over time and changed color to allow the sought after speckled green/gold color to emerge.
The indexes and hands are made of gold (sometimes erroneously called “steel” on some Extracts from the archives) and filled with luminescent material. The Patek Philippe signature and the outer minute divisions were painted. Below the 6 o’clock index is the word “Swiss” flanked on each side by the “Aprior” mark of two sigma symbols. The Aprior mark was conferred by the “Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or” on dials made of solid gold or at least with solid gold indexes.
Caliber 28-255 C
Generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibers, it was based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 and regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. Crucially it is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120.
The caliber is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21k gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.
The Nautilus Waterproof Case Ref. 3700/1
The case patent design of original Nautilus, reference 3700/1 was registered on 23rd April 1976. Made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crét du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Reunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal. The last three digits of the case number are always stamped on the inside of the bezel. The reference 3700/1 was made in stainless steel, steel and gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold and platinum.
For a detailed information, illustration and description about this reference, see ‘A study of the Patek Philippe ref. 3700 “Nautilus” by Mstanga.