Lot Essay
Awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping, breathtaking, astonishing. Any one of these words could be used to describe this quite simply sensational platinum and diamond Jumbo Nautilus with platinum bracelet by Gay Frères – the one and only publicly known example of reference 3700/31 and undoubtedly the most important Nautilus reference 3700 in the world. Moreover, quite incredibly, the original Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and sales invoice from Patek Philippe Geneva have survived and accompany the watch. Without question the present haute joallierie Nautilus is one of the all-time great Patek Philippe 20th century wristwatches, so significant that it was given its own individual sub-reference, a fabled wristwatch that has entered the empyrean of Patek Philippe rarities. Its rarity can be directly compared for instance, to the platinum reference 2499, and to give further context, it is far rarer than the steel reference 1518 or the two-crown 2523 world time. Indeed, only a small number of wristwatches in the world are so famous, important, beautiful and desirable that they enjoy the status of celebrity, their name or designation is all the introduction necessary. This platinum and diamond Nautilus is one such wristwatch and it is therefore with great excitement that Christie’s can now offer this world-class timepiece to international collectors and all admirers of Patek Philippe.
Platinum & Diamond Jumbo Nautilus Reference 3700/31
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is perhaps the most desired model of all the company’s production wristwatches, indeed it is one of the ultimate luxury status symbols in the world. Every Nautilus wristwatch of every reference is incredibly prized, however, even in the rarefied realm of the Nautilus family there are the superstars, ultra-special precious metal and gem-set pieces that were never intended for the public gaze and never included in any catalogue. These Nautilus models are beyond desirable, inhabiting the stratosphere of luxury watchmaking.
The reference 3700 ‘Jumbo’ Nautilus was the first model of Nautilus introduced in 1976. In the just over 20 years of production, approximately 7500 watches were made in total, the majority in stainless steel. Of these 7500, only three examples in platinum are known to exist today. What sets apart the present watch even from the other two known platinum watches and elevates it to the very highest level of rarity is, firstly, that the bezel has been set with 128 diamonds and the dial with 11 diamond hour markers, as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives. Secondly, it has thus been designated with its own reference number 3700/31. The other two known examples in platinum are the ‘standard’ reference 3700/1. Naturally, the overall combination of platinum case and bracelet coupled with a black dial and diamonds is simply breathtaking.
Study by the most eminent Patek Philippe scholars suggest that all the platinum Nautilus were most likely produced for special orders. It is quite possible that no other watch left Patek Philippe finished with this exact same configuration, or perhaps even with the same sub-reference number. Only three platinum Nautilus are known today, the present watch being the only example of the sub-reference ‘31’, it is thought that four or perhaps one or two more platinum Nautilus may have been made although this remains conjecture. Most probably, the platinum cases were all part of a single order commissioned between 1980 and 1981 to Neuchâtel-based case maker Favre-Perret (hallmark 115, inscribed into a hammer), the elected case maker for the Nautilus since the inception of the model and until around 1981. Consequently, this order is one of the last batches of Nautilus cases made outside of Patek Philippe manufacture, as the company began production of cases in their Ateliers Réunis workshop in 1981. It is highly probable that each one of the platinum Nautilus was a special order, finished on-demand and reserved for extremely special clients, a theory supported by the fact that seven years passed between the case order and the sale of the watch, in this instance. It is assumed that all platinum reference 3700 were each finished differently according to the individual clients' requests.
It is noteworthy that the solid platinum bracelet is made by legendary jeweller Gay Frères, as denoted by the stamping of their trademark on the deployant clasp. A testament to the incredibly high standard to which this watch was manufactured.
For the present watch, its importance as the first ‘haute joaillerie’ platinum 3700 is matched only by its condition. Never restored, most probably never polished, and worn a handful of times at most, the proportions and finish of this majestic timepiece shine in all their glory. The subtle bevelling of the lugs, so often lost with the first polishing, is crisp and defined; the satin finish is untouched. The watch presents only extremely minor surface scratches noticeable on the polished details of bezel and bracelet after careful examination.
Platinum & Diamond Jumbo Nautilus Reference 3700/31
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is perhaps the most desired model of all the company’s production wristwatches, indeed it is one of the ultimate luxury status symbols in the world. Every Nautilus wristwatch of every reference is incredibly prized, however, even in the rarefied realm of the Nautilus family there are the superstars, ultra-special precious metal and gem-set pieces that were never intended for the public gaze and never included in any catalogue. These Nautilus models are beyond desirable, inhabiting the stratosphere of luxury watchmaking.
The reference 3700 ‘Jumbo’ Nautilus was the first model of Nautilus introduced in 1976. In the just over 20 years of production, approximately 7500 watches were made in total, the majority in stainless steel. Of these 7500, only three examples in platinum are known to exist today. What sets apart the present watch even from the other two known platinum watches and elevates it to the very highest level of rarity is, firstly, that the bezel has been set with 128 diamonds and the dial with 11 diamond hour markers, as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives. Secondly, it has thus been designated with its own reference number 3700/31. The other two known examples in platinum are the ‘standard’ reference 3700/1. Naturally, the overall combination of platinum case and bracelet coupled with a black dial and diamonds is simply breathtaking.
Study by the most eminent Patek Philippe scholars suggest that all the platinum Nautilus were most likely produced for special orders. It is quite possible that no other watch left Patek Philippe finished with this exact same configuration, or perhaps even with the same sub-reference number. Only three platinum Nautilus are known today, the present watch being the only example of the sub-reference ‘31’, it is thought that four or perhaps one or two more platinum Nautilus may have been made although this remains conjecture. Most probably, the platinum cases were all part of a single order commissioned between 1980 and 1981 to Neuchâtel-based case maker Favre-Perret (hallmark 115, inscribed into a hammer), the elected case maker for the Nautilus since the inception of the model and until around 1981. Consequently, this order is one of the last batches of Nautilus cases made outside of Patek Philippe manufacture, as the company began production of cases in their Ateliers Réunis workshop in 1981. It is highly probable that each one of the platinum Nautilus was a special order, finished on-demand and reserved for extremely special clients, a theory supported by the fact that seven years passed between the case order and the sale of the watch, in this instance. It is assumed that all platinum reference 3700 were each finished differently according to the individual clients' requests.
It is noteworthy that the solid platinum bracelet is made by legendary jeweller Gay Frères, as denoted by the stamping of their trademark on the deployant clasp. A testament to the incredibly high standard to which this watch was manufactured.
For the present watch, its importance as the first ‘haute joaillerie’ platinum 3700 is matched only by its condition. Never restored, most probably never polished, and worn a handful of times at most, the proportions and finish of this majestic timepiece shine in all their glory. The subtle bevelling of the lugs, so often lost with the first polishing, is crisp and defined; the satin finish is untouched. The watch presents only extremely minor surface scratches noticeable on the polished details of bezel and bracelet after careful examination.