28TAI MODEL, CIRCA 2020

This awesome limited edition Vingt 8 ‘Inverse’ is one of only 10 pieces made in the rare metal tantalum. For the Vingt 8 ‘Inverse’ series, the caliber 28 movement is quite literally inverted in the case so that the escapement and large balance wheel is visible from the front and takes centre stage. In order that the hands would move in the correct direction, and to facilitate hand-setting, extra gearing was required.

Kari Voutilainen has a deep understanding of true luxury, each element of his watches is designed and made with the same attention to detail however small. This phenomenal tantalum Vingt 8 ‘Inverse’ is a dream timepiece for the collector of the best Independently made wristwatches, it offers exclusivity, complexity, beauty and the reassurance of handmade excellence.

Launched in 2011, the Vingt-8 is the classic model from Voutilainen and one of the best known watches to emerge out of independent watchmaking. The in-house movement with direct impulse escapement with two escape wheels is, for the present watch, housed in a tantalum case and fitted with a hand made blue chapter ring. The steel hands have blued steel tips and centres that create a visual coherence. Finished to the highest standards, the Vingt-8 is the watch that is largely responsible for Voutilanen’s cult following. A must for the connoisseur of independent watchmaking, this watch exemplifies the Voutilainen philosophy and will doubtless become even more sought after as demand for the work of independent watchmakers becomes ever more appreciated. Only 28 Vingt 8 ‘Inverse’ watches were made apart from any special request pieces. 10 were made in platinum, a further 10 in tantalum and 8 pieces in titanium.

The entire conception, design, manufacture, finishing and assembly of this watch was carried out in Voutilainen workshops. The dial is a masterpiece for which Kari Voutilainen is renowned. The perfection and beauty of his engine turned dials, created on age-old engine turning machines is remarkable, it can take two days of work to complete the engine turning to the required standard.

With 65-hours of power reserve, the caliber 28 features wheels made of rose gold and an escapement that has two escape-wheels that receive direct impulse. The large 13.60 mm diameter free-sprung balance is fitted with a Breguet/Grossmann balance spring and rose gold inertia blocks. However, the present watch’s most fascinating feature is its direct-impulse escapement, a variation of Breguet’s ‘échappement naturél’, Voutilainen was the first to use an escapement with two escape-wheels in this configuration. The advantage of this escapement is that it is extremely efficient and requires less energy than a traditional lever escapement and is therefore more stable in everyday use.

Kari Voutilainen is one of the most impressive of contemporary independent watchmakers. His superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these completely captivating mechanical works of art. When any one of Voutilainen’s phenomenal watches comes to auction it always creates a frisson of excitement among collectors.

Kari Voutilainen Born in Finland in 1962, he completed his initial watchmaker's training at the renowned watchmaking school of Tapiola in Finland. A stint at Switzerland's prestigious international watchmaking school WOSTEP in Neuchâtel, Switzerland in 1990 led to work at the Atelier of Parmigiani, where he worked for nine years, followed by a few years of work as a watchmaking teacher for WOSTEP. Following his passion, and in order to preserve this highly prized tradition, Kari Voutilainen established his own business as an independent Artist Watchmaker in the village of Môtiers in 2002.