Lot Essay
Two choker necklaces in the al-Sabah collection, which are attributed to Hyderabad, are of similar design to ours, with a row of green-enamelled square mounts with pearl fringes above and below. Like ours, the reverses of those examples also featured floral designs executed in a bold palette of red, green, white, and pale blue (Salam Kaoukji, Adornment and Splendour: Jewels of the Indian Courts, London, 2023, p.266, no.108 and p.270, no.109). In the Khalili collection there is also a bracelet attributed to Jaipur, which is of green enamel with gold buds appearing to spout out of the gemstone, as on this example. Other examples were sold in the Ann and Gordon Getty Collection, sold Christie's New York, 24 October 2022, lot 1217. Another was sold Christie's Milan, 29 November 2007, lot 578. Both lacked the additional row of pearls along the upper fringe which is found on ours. A further example lacking the enamel and set with rubies with amethyst drop-pendants was sold in these Rooms, 23 April 2015, lot 150.