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Lot Essay
In superb condition with a captivating white gold dial, this Tourbillon Souverain belongs to the highly sought-after 'Reference T' series and represents the 3rd generation of the model. Its serial number, 062/00T, signifies that it is the 62nd watch in the series, produced in 2000. Until the introduction of the 'Reference TN' or 'Tourbillon Nouveau' in April 2004, the Tourbillon Souverain series was equipped with the caliber 1498 rhodium-plated brass movement. After 2004, this movement was replaced by the caliber 1403, made of 18k gold. Consequently, early examples of this model, including the present watch with its rhodium-plated brass movement, are now considered significant and historic milestones in the brand's history, making them highly coveted by collectors.
The Tourbillon Souverain 'Reference T' was first introduced at Baselworld in 1999 and holds the distinction of being F.P. Journe's first series-production watch, following the success of the initial 20 Souscription watches. Notably, it was the first wristwatch ever to incorporate the ‘Remontoire d’Égalité,’ a constant force mechanism that ensures consistent timekeeping by regulating the fluctuating force delivered by the mainspring to the escapement as it unwinds. This mechanism ensures that the tourbillon receives a consistent force throughout the watch’s 42-hour power reserve.
Early F.P. Journe watches were typically housed in platinum cases, with very few examples produced in pink gold. Platinum was the material of choice for Journe's initial prototypes and the Souscription Tourbillons, reflecting what is believed to be his personal preference for the white metal, which was also favored by several of his early clients for its versatility.
As a result, only a limited number of pink gold cases were ever produced. It is estimated that fewer than 40 Tourbillon Souverains with brass movements were made with a pink gold case and white gold dial. This particular example, sold in France in 2000, features French import hallmarks on the shallow-engraved caseback—an additional unique characteristic of this rare piece.
From the ‘Reference T’ series, four dial generations have been identified:
First generation: "Souscription" series, only 20 pieces made, sold to collectors who paid prior to completion of the watches, as the name indicates. The watches are numbered from 1⁄20 to 20⁄20 on the dial and on the case, the dials inscribed only "Invenit et Fecit / F.P. Journe". The cock for the remontoire is rounded.
Second generation: Reference T, the first watches made as a production series. The dials are signed “Invenit et Fecit / F.P. Journe" and "Remontoir d'Egalité". As with the Souscription watches, the cock for the remontoire is rounded.
Third generation: Increased size power reserve numerals, almost the same size as the minutes. Flat remontoire cock.
Fourth generation: This dial type is characterised by smaller dial screws.
The Tourbillon Souverain 'Reference T' was first introduced at Baselworld in 1999 and holds the distinction of being F.P. Journe's first series-production watch, following the success of the initial 20 Souscription watches. Notably, it was the first wristwatch ever to incorporate the ‘Remontoire d’Égalité,’ a constant force mechanism that ensures consistent timekeeping by regulating the fluctuating force delivered by the mainspring to the escapement as it unwinds. This mechanism ensures that the tourbillon receives a consistent force throughout the watch’s 42-hour power reserve.
Early F.P. Journe watches were typically housed in platinum cases, with very few examples produced in pink gold. Platinum was the material of choice for Journe's initial prototypes and the Souscription Tourbillons, reflecting what is believed to be his personal preference for the white metal, which was also favored by several of his early clients for its versatility.
As a result, only a limited number of pink gold cases were ever produced. It is estimated that fewer than 40 Tourbillon Souverains with brass movements were made with a pink gold case and white gold dial. This particular example, sold in France in 2000, features French import hallmarks on the shallow-engraved caseback—an additional unique characteristic of this rare piece.
From the ‘Reference T’ series, four dial generations have been identified:
First generation: "Souscription" series, only 20 pieces made, sold to collectors who paid prior to completion of the watches, as the name indicates. The watches are numbered from 1⁄20 to 20⁄20 on the dial and on the case, the dials inscribed only "Invenit et Fecit / F.P. Journe". The cock for the remontoire is rounded.
Second generation: Reference T, the first watches made as a production series. The dials are signed “Invenit et Fecit / F.P. Journe" and "Remontoir d'Egalité". As with the Souscription watches, the cock for the remontoire is rounded.
Third generation: Increased size power reserve numerals, almost the same size as the minutes. Flat remontoire cock.
Fourth generation: This dial type is characterised by smaller dial screws.