Lot Essay
With its rare and highly sought-after combination of a stainless steel ‘Staybrite’ case and a charismatic black multiscale dial, the present large-size watch is one of the most desirable vintage mid-century chronographs made by Omega, epitomizing some of the finest wristwatch design of the period.
While Omega’s chronographs were variously cased in either steel or precious metals, the present watch is housed in ‘Staybrite’ stainless steel, offering the highest level of corrosion resistance for watches intended for use in tropical climates. Interestingly, the Extract from the Archives confirms that it was supplied to the French Colonies in 1941, during World War II - when Charles de Gaulle and the Free French gradually took control of the overseas colonies and used them as bases from which to prepare for the liberation of France. Indeed, the black dial and steel case are classic features of watches intended for military use, the dial printed with practical information such as the telemeter scale (to help artillery officers gauge the distance of enemy fire) and the tachymeter scale (used to measure speed over a known distance).
This chronograph is fitted with the legendary Omega Caliber 33.3 CHRO, an achingly beautiful manual-winding chronograph movement derived from a Lemania base and used by both Omega and Tissot. Lemania was assigned the role of designing and manufacturing movements because Omega did not yet have these capabilities in-house. In general, complete watches were assembled entirely in L’Orient by Lemania. This is confirmed by the Extract from the Archives for the present watch, which states: 'This watch was produced under license by ‘Lemania Watch L’Orient,’ which was a subsidiary of Omega at that time'.
While Omega’s chronographs were variously cased in either steel or precious metals, the present watch is housed in ‘Staybrite’ stainless steel, offering the highest level of corrosion resistance for watches intended for use in tropical climates. Interestingly, the Extract from the Archives confirms that it was supplied to the French Colonies in 1941, during World War II - when Charles de Gaulle and the Free French gradually took control of the overseas colonies and used them as bases from which to prepare for the liberation of France. Indeed, the black dial and steel case are classic features of watches intended for military use, the dial printed with practical information such as the telemeter scale (to help artillery officers gauge the distance of enemy fire) and the tachymeter scale (used to measure speed over a known distance).
This chronograph is fitted with the legendary Omega Caliber 33.3 CHRO, an achingly beautiful manual-winding chronograph movement derived from a Lemania base and used by both Omega and Tissot. Lemania was assigned the role of designing and manufacturing movements because Omega did not yet have these capabilities in-house. In general, complete watches were assembled entirely in L’Orient by Lemania. This is confirmed by the Extract from the Archives for the present watch, which states: 'This watch was produced under license by ‘Lemania Watch L’Orient,’ which was a subsidiary of Omega at that time'.