AN EXTRAORDINARY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' BROOCH
AN EXTRAORDINARY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' BROOCH
AN EXTRAORDINARY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' BROOCH
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Color and Ingenuity: The Collection of Lucille Coleman
AN EXTRAORDINARY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' BROOCH

細節
AN EXTRAORDINARY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET' BROOCH
Designed as a flower, calibré-cut rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold (French mark) and platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels (flower), Van Cleef & Arpels, NY (stem), maker's mark, each element numbered, stem detachable

Size/Dimensions: 10.6 x 5.3 x 0.3 cm (4 x 2 x 1⁄8 in)
Gross Weight: 57.8 grams
出版
Cf. É. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels: When Elegance Meets Art, Paris, Musées Des Arts Décoratifs, 2018, p. 116
更多詳情
Unmistakable to the eye, exceptionally crafted by design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mysterieux’ is a delicate and precise technique of which only few jewelers have mastered. A testament to this skill, only pieces crafted by the best Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers earn the title ‘Mystery-set’. Often imitated, this unique style of setting colored stones was patented in the 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.

The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.

榮譽呈獻

Rahul Kadakia
Rahul Kadakia International Head of Jewellery

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