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拍品專文
The intimate relationship between Cartier and India began in 1911. Jacques Cartier traveled to India for the very first time to attend the Coronation of George V and Queen Mary of Teck at the Delhi Durbar. During this weeklong celebration, whereas they were crowned Emperor and Empress of India, nearly every ruling Maharaja of India was present.
It was here where Indian tradition made a mark on Jacques but also where he captivated the attention of the Maharajas and Maharanis in attendance. Sharing western designs from the Maison in Paris, he developed lasting relationships with new clients and suppliers. Most importantly, he brought back to Paris innovative inspiration that would result in one of the most important eras not just for Cartier but for the history of jewelry design.
Fascinated by French design, it was not long before Indian royalty began to commission Cartier to breathe new life into their family jewels, creating new pieces from old materials and building a collaborative bridge between East and West.
Jacques began to import unique gemstones from India to France in order to craft bespoke pieces to fulfil these commissions and in turn, European interest and intrigue in Indian culture became increasingly popular. The international jet set were enamored by these designs and commissioned jewels of their own that included Indian elements enhancing otherwise western jewels.
Jacques kept a journal of his travels to and from India, noting moments of inspiration and admiration of the richly diverse part of the world. Carved and cabochon-shaped precious stones, natural pearls and enamel enhanced jewels that notably were of larger scale and more opulent in design than the diamond-set Art Deco jewels of the era.
Designed as a Jabot pin, Lot 39 is an incredible example of French design with Indian influence. Originating in France and wildly popular in the 1920s and 1930s, the jabot pin-brooch features an ornamented motif at either end. By design, only the bejeweled ends are visible, allowing the fabric to be seen in between. In the 17th century, jabot pins were primarily used to secure the piece of fabric on the front of men’s shirts. At this same time in history, Indian rulers were wearing this style of jewel to keep opulent garments in place or precisely secure their turban. Through the use of natural pearls, carved rubies and cabochon emeralds, in tandem with the sharply shaped baguette-cut diamonds and geometric polished platinum – this Cartier Art Deco Jabot-Brooch is a perfect marriage of East and West.
Featuring carved and cabochon emeralds, table and old-cut diamonds and opaque enamel work, Lot 40 is inspired by traditional Indian turban ornaments. Called ‘sarpechs’ or ‘jighas’, these traditional pieces were worn by Indian rulers on the front of their turbans. Ornate and often with openwork design, historical imagery shows Indian sarpechs and jighas with colorful enameled surfaces, charming portrait and table-cut diamonds, along with vibrant carved gemstones. These thoughtful creations were said to be worn by only the highest-ranking Indian rulers.
This fascinating Cartier brooch is intended to be worn on the shoulder, while the accompanying detachable seed pearl tassel moves with the wearer ever so gracefully. The use of opaque black enamel, old and table-cut diamonds, along with geometric nods cement this shoulder brooch firmly in the Art Deco period. A standout out lot in the groundbreaking 2019 Christie's sale, Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence, this Cartier Art Deco Multi-Gem Shoulder Brooch is the perfect culmination of the inspiration Jacques Cartier took from India.
Filled with history, these two magnificent brooches from the same Exceptional Private Collection are some of the most excellent examples of the lasting dialogue between Cartier and India.
It was here where Indian tradition made a mark on Jacques but also where he captivated the attention of the Maharajas and Maharanis in attendance. Sharing western designs from the Maison in Paris, he developed lasting relationships with new clients and suppliers. Most importantly, he brought back to Paris innovative inspiration that would result in one of the most important eras not just for Cartier but for the history of jewelry design.
Fascinated by French design, it was not long before Indian royalty began to commission Cartier to breathe new life into their family jewels, creating new pieces from old materials and building a collaborative bridge between East and West.
Jacques began to import unique gemstones from India to France in order to craft bespoke pieces to fulfil these commissions and in turn, European interest and intrigue in Indian culture became increasingly popular. The international jet set were enamored by these designs and commissioned jewels of their own that included Indian elements enhancing otherwise western jewels.
Jacques kept a journal of his travels to and from India, noting moments of inspiration and admiration of the richly diverse part of the world. Carved and cabochon-shaped precious stones, natural pearls and enamel enhanced jewels that notably were of larger scale and more opulent in design than the diamond-set Art Deco jewels of the era.
Designed as a Jabot pin, Lot 39 is an incredible example of French design with Indian influence. Originating in France and wildly popular in the 1920s and 1930s, the jabot pin-brooch features an ornamented motif at either end. By design, only the bejeweled ends are visible, allowing the fabric to be seen in between. In the 17th century, jabot pins were primarily used to secure the piece of fabric on the front of men’s shirts. At this same time in history, Indian rulers were wearing this style of jewel to keep opulent garments in place or precisely secure their turban. Through the use of natural pearls, carved rubies and cabochon emeralds, in tandem with the sharply shaped baguette-cut diamonds and geometric polished platinum – this Cartier Art Deco Jabot-Brooch is a perfect marriage of East and West.
Featuring carved and cabochon emeralds, table and old-cut diamonds and opaque enamel work, Lot 40 is inspired by traditional Indian turban ornaments. Called ‘sarpechs’ or ‘jighas’, these traditional pieces were worn by Indian rulers on the front of their turbans. Ornate and often with openwork design, historical imagery shows Indian sarpechs and jighas with colorful enameled surfaces, charming portrait and table-cut diamonds, along with vibrant carved gemstones. These thoughtful creations were said to be worn by only the highest-ranking Indian rulers.
This fascinating Cartier brooch is intended to be worn on the shoulder, while the accompanying detachable seed pearl tassel moves with the wearer ever so gracefully. The use of opaque black enamel, old and table-cut diamonds, along with geometric nods cement this shoulder brooch firmly in the Art Deco period. A standout out lot in the groundbreaking 2019 Christie's sale, Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence, this Cartier Art Deco Multi-Gem Shoulder Brooch is the perfect culmination of the inspiration Jacques Cartier took from India.
Filled with history, these two magnificent brooches from the same Exceptional Private Collection are some of the most excellent examples of the lasting dialogue between Cartier and India.