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Lot Essay
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. The company regards reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning Cartier double-signed second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design.
One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
Since its launch in 1941, the reference 1518 has always been one of the most desired of all Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatches. The 1518 and its companion reference 1526 were the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatches to be made in series by any manufacturer. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker’s number 9, inscribed in a key). For 45 years, the reference 1518 and reference 2499 were equipped with calibre 13 Q (13 130 Q) a Valjoux ébauche, first upgraded and finished to the highest standards for that time, in Patek’s workshop, then modified under the dial, by Victorin Piguet workshops, to receive the perpetual calendar function.
Demand has always outstripped supply of the reference 1518, any examples supplied to lucky official Patek Philippe agents tended to only be offered to their most important and exacting clients. According to research, only 281 examples were made until 1954, the majority cased in yellow gold. The model was later replaced by the equally legendary reference 2499, also a perpetual calendar chronograph, but with a wider diameter and fluted lugs.
Literature:
The reference 1518 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, first edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459 and in: Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte, Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, second edition p. 127. It is also illustrated in: the Blue Book 3, by Eric Tortella, 2019 edition.
The perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is more closely associated with Patek Philippe than perhaps any other model other than the Nautilus. Indeed, the story of the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch walks hand in hand with the history of Patek Philippe itself. Patek Philippe were the first company to produce perpetual calendar chronographs in series, an achievement that no other manufacturer could match for almost half a century. The perpetual calendar chronograph was in many ways the complication that re-established and confirmed for the second half of the 20th century Patek Philippe’s reputation as the greatest watch brand in the world. A reputation that is undimmed to the present day. The company regards reference 1518 as one of the models that represent the true custodians of their heritage, indeed reference 1518, showcased here by this stunning Cartier double-signed second series watch is hard to beat as one of the all-time classics. These technically remarkable timepieces so closely linked to the fortunes of the company over the last 80 years, have become icons of ‘golden age’ mid-20th century design.
One of the most useful watchmaking inventions of all time, the perpetual calendar is credited to the Englishman Thomas Mudge who made a perpetual calendar watch in 1762. The mechanism not only self-adjusts for the number of days in the month but also calculates the correct adjustment for the leap-years. Patek Philippe was unsurprisingly very early in using the perpetual calendar in wristwatches with the references 1518 and 1526 in 1941 and the 2499 in 1950.
Reference 1518
Since its launch in 1941, the reference 1518 has always been one of the most desired of all Patek Philippe’s complicated wristwatches. The 1518 and its companion reference 1526 were the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatches to be made in series by any manufacturer. In production from 1941 to 1954, the total output is a meagre 281 pieces. It is known in yellow and pink gold, as well few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated dozens of clients, as it was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt. The case design of the model underwent a subtle evolution over the years: the first examples featured the chronograph pushers to the centre of the band and the date correctors closer to the upper edge. Later, the pushers are found closer to the lower edge of the band, and the correctors are moved slightly down as well. Transitional models between the first and second case design present a thicker case body and thinner band, while later the case body is less prominent in favour of a more important bezel. Gold cases were made by Emile Vichet (case maker’s number 9, inscribed in a key). For 45 years, the reference 1518 and reference 2499 were equipped with calibre 13 Q (13 130 Q) a Valjoux ébauche, first upgraded and finished to the highest standards for that time, in Patek’s workshop, then modified under the dial, by Victorin Piguet workshops, to receive the perpetual calendar function.
Demand has always outstripped supply of the reference 1518, any examples supplied to lucky official Patek Philippe agents tended to only be offered to their most important and exacting clients. According to research, only 281 examples were made until 1954, the majority cased in yellow gold. The model was later replaced by the equally legendary reference 2499, also a perpetual calendar chronograph, but with a wider diameter and fluted lugs.
Literature:
The reference 1518 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, first edition p. 231 pl. 386, second edition p. 303 pl. 459 and in: Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte, Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, second edition p. 127. It is also illustrated in: the Blue Book 3, by Eric Tortella, 2019 edition.