.jpg?w=1)
.jpg?w=1)
.jpg?w=1)
.jpg?w=1)
Lot Essay
One of the most elusive rarities in the world of vintage Patek Philippe, this stainless steel reference 3700⁄1, was created for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman.
The steel Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 with the Khanjar emblem is one of the rarest and most historically significant Nautilus watches ever made, with only four known examples. The present example is notable not only for its provenance but also for its incredibly charming tropical dial, which has aged to a warm and attractive patina, and the eye-catching white Khanjar insignia of Oman, which is prominently displayed on the dial.
Steel Nautilus Ref. 3700⁄1 ‘White Khanjar’ Tropical Dial, Movement No. 1’304’896, Case No. 536’187 – An Appreciation
The present timepiece, which dates to 1978, is an extremely significant early example from just the second year of Nautilus production. It has unique features that are only found in these early watches.
Among the most sought-after and collectible Nautilus models ever made, this watch is one of only four known examples of the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 in stainless steel, which was made to order for the Sultanate of Oman's Royal Household. The white Khanjar emblem, a traditional Omani national symbol that features a dagger in its sheath placed over two crossed swords, is prominently displayed on the dial's lower half.
The discovery of the present watch in 2021 brought the number of known examples to four in stainless steel that have ever reached the secondary open market:
- The first bearing case no. 536’201 and movement no. 1’304’954 was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 14 May 2012, lot 315.
- The second bearing the immediately preceding case number 536’200 and movement number of only two digits difference, 1’304’952, was sold by Christie’s, Dubai, on 19 October 2016, lot 137.
- The third with case no. 536'186 and movement no. 1'304'895, was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 20 July 2020, lot 96.
- The fourth with immediately ascending case no. 536’187 and movement no. 1’304’896, was sold by Christie's, Geneva, on 6 November 2023, lot 2106.
The fact that all four of the known examples of these Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 watches not only have serial numbers that are close to one another but were also sold on July 31, 1978, is extremely significant historically. This strong evidence demonstrates that they were all produced specifically for the Sultan of Oman as part of a single, specially designated order.
During the 1970s, there were no official watch agents in Oman and so almost all the watches made by Patek Philippe and various other brands with 'Khanjar' dials were supplied through the ultra-high-end London retailer, Asprey of New Bond Street, and occasionally through their Geneva branch.
Detailed analysis of the present watch has identified the following technical details associated with the early years of Nautilus production:
The Dial
Although it is commonly known that the first Nautilus dials from 1976 (referred to as Type 1 by scholars like Mstanga) have minute divisions in the form of batons, much fewer collectors are familiar with the 'Type 1B' dial. The dot minute indexes first appear in this extremely rare transitional variant, which maintains the recognizable Type 1 signature typography.
This particular example's dial is part of the elusive Type 1B category, which was only manufactured for a short time prior to the Type 2 dial's debut. The luminous material on the hands and indexes has aged gracefully, giving the watch a warm, vintage charm. Over time, it has developed a lovely and uniform tropicalized patina.
The Case
The original Nautilus reference 3700⁄1's patented case design was registered on April 23, 1976. Favre-Perret SA was initially in charge of production from 1976 to 1981 in Le Crêt-du-Locle, before moving to Patek Philippe's own Ateliers Réunis workshops.
The case is made up of two main parts: the bezel and the central body. On either side are the recognizable 'ears', which fit together with matching flanges. Lateral screws, a defining feature of Gérald Genta's clever design, hold these components in place. One of the technical innovations that made the Nautilus one of the most advanced sports-luxury timepieces of its time was the compression of a rubber gasket between the bezel and case body under water pressure, creating an airtight and watertight seal.
The steel Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 with the Khanjar emblem is one of the rarest and most historically significant Nautilus watches ever made, with only four known examples. The present example is notable not only for its provenance but also for its incredibly charming tropical dial, which has aged to a warm and attractive patina, and the eye-catching white Khanjar insignia of Oman, which is prominently displayed on the dial.
Steel Nautilus Ref. 3700⁄1 ‘White Khanjar’ Tropical Dial, Movement No. 1’304’896, Case No. 536’187 – An Appreciation
The present timepiece, which dates to 1978, is an extremely significant early example from just the second year of Nautilus production. It has unique features that are only found in these early watches.
Among the most sought-after and collectible Nautilus models ever made, this watch is one of only four known examples of the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 in stainless steel, which was made to order for the Sultanate of Oman's Royal Household. The white Khanjar emblem, a traditional Omani national symbol that features a dagger in its sheath placed over two crossed swords, is prominently displayed on the dial's lower half.
The discovery of the present watch in 2021 brought the number of known examples to four in stainless steel that have ever reached the secondary open market:
- The first bearing case no. 536’201 and movement no. 1’304’954 was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 14 May 2012, lot 315.
- The second bearing the immediately preceding case number 536’200 and movement number of only two digits difference, 1’304’952, was sold by Christie’s, Dubai, on 19 October 2016, lot 137.
- The third with case no. 536'186 and movement no. 1'304'895, was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 20 July 2020, lot 96.
- The fourth with immediately ascending case no. 536’187 and movement no. 1’304’896, was sold by Christie's, Geneva, on 6 November 2023, lot 2106.
The fact that all four of the known examples of these Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700⁄1 watches not only have serial numbers that are close to one another but were also sold on July 31, 1978, is extremely significant historically. This strong evidence demonstrates that they were all produced specifically for the Sultan of Oman as part of a single, specially designated order.
During the 1970s, there were no official watch agents in Oman and so almost all the watches made by Patek Philippe and various other brands with 'Khanjar' dials were supplied through the ultra-high-end London retailer, Asprey of New Bond Street, and occasionally through their Geneva branch.
Detailed analysis of the present watch has identified the following technical details associated with the early years of Nautilus production:
The Dial
Although it is commonly known that the first Nautilus dials from 1976 (referred to as Type 1 by scholars like Mstanga) have minute divisions in the form of batons, much fewer collectors are familiar with the 'Type 1B' dial. The dot minute indexes first appear in this extremely rare transitional variant, which maintains the recognizable Type 1 signature typography.
This particular example's dial is part of the elusive Type 1B category, which was only manufactured for a short time prior to the Type 2 dial's debut. The luminous material on the hands and indexes has aged gracefully, giving the watch a warm, vintage charm. Over time, it has developed a lovely and uniform tropicalized patina.
The Case
The original Nautilus reference 3700⁄1's patented case design was registered on April 23, 1976. Favre-Perret SA was initially in charge of production from 1976 to 1981 in Le Crêt-du-Locle, before moving to Patek Philippe's own Ateliers Réunis workshops.
The case is made up of two main parts: the bezel and the central body. On either side are the recognizable 'ears', which fit together with matching flanges. Lateral screws, a defining feature of Gérald Genta's clever design, hold these components in place. One of the technical innovations that made the Nautilus one of the most advanced sports-luxury timepieces of its time was the compression of a rubber gasket between the bezel and case body under water pressure, creating an airtight and watertight seal.