.jpg?w=1)
.jpg?w=1)
.jpg?w=1)
.jpg?w=1)
Lot Essay
The present timepiece is of unique and highly unusual character. Formerly the property of Jean-Maurice Golay, a distinguished watchmaker who worked for several leading manufactures, the present Royal Oak was personally assembled and regulated by him. In order to accommodate his personal aesthetic preferences, Golay chose to deviate from the reference's standard configuration during the watch's creation by adding a polished bezel and a grey dial with Petite Tapisserie motif, which was usually fitted to the reference 25594SA, its two-tone counterpart. He retained the watch for his own use, wearing it for over 20 years. Upon his retirement in 2004, the timepiece was officially presented to him by Audemars Piguet in recognition of his career.
In 2013, the watch was returned to Audemars Piguet’s after-sales department for servicing. While the manufacture proposed restoring the watch to its original specification, Golay declined. In line with his wishes, Audemars Piguet carried out the service and emphasized the piece's uniqueness by giving it a special reference: 25594ST.OO.0789ST.05.A.
Reference 25594 is a direct descendant of the Royal Oak Day-Date reference 5572, introduced in 1983. Reference 25594, which was developed at the same time but released a year later, features a moon-phase display that improves the dial's visual harmony. With 333 units sold in 1984 and more than 600 the following year, the model enjoyed instant commercial success. Surprisingly, it has been in the catalogue for more than 20 years, from 1985 to 2006, making it the longest-produced Royal Oak reference.
Jean-Maurice Golay
Jean-Maurice Golay, who was born in the Vallée de Joux in 1939, was destined to follow in his family's footsteps and pursue a career in watchmaking. He trained at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux before joining Lemania, where he specialised in the production of 24-ligne split-seconds chronographs, notably used by Omega for Olympic timing.
He later joined Omega before returning to Lemania in 1968 as Chief Watchmaker, overseeing research and prototyping. The industry was drastically altered by the start of the quartz crisis, which led Golay to look for new prospects. He began working at the then-relatively small Audemars Piguet in 1980, where he would remain until his retirement in 2004, contributing to a pivotal period in the brand’s modern history.
In 2013, the watch was returned to Audemars Piguet’s after-sales department for servicing. While the manufacture proposed restoring the watch to its original specification, Golay declined. In line with his wishes, Audemars Piguet carried out the service and emphasized the piece's uniqueness by giving it a special reference: 25594ST.OO.0789ST.05.A.
Reference 25594 is a direct descendant of the Royal Oak Day-Date reference 5572, introduced in 1983. Reference 25594, which was developed at the same time but released a year later, features a moon-phase display that improves the dial's visual harmony. With 333 units sold in 1984 and more than 600 the following year, the model enjoyed instant commercial success. Surprisingly, it has been in the catalogue for more than 20 years, from 1985 to 2006, making it the longest-produced Royal Oak reference.
Jean-Maurice Golay
Jean-Maurice Golay, who was born in the Vallée de Joux in 1939, was destined to follow in his family's footsteps and pursue a career in watchmaking. He trained at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux before joining Lemania, where he specialised in the production of 24-ligne split-seconds chronographs, notably used by Omega for Olympic timing.
He later joined Omega before returning to Lemania in 1968 as Chief Watchmaker, overseeing research and prototyping. The industry was drastically altered by the start of the quartz crisis, which led Golay to look for new prospects. He began working at the then-relatively small Audemars Piguet in 1980, where he would remain until his retirement in 2004, contributing to a pivotal period in the brand’s modern history.