DE BETHUNE. AN AVANT-GARDE AND UNUSUAL 18K WHITE GOLD SEMI-SKELETONIZED HORSESHOE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH SPHERICAL MOON PHASES, POWER RESERVE INDICATION AND FIRST-GENERATION MOVEMENT
DE BETHUNE. AN AVANT-GARDE AND UNUSUAL 18K WHITE GOLD SEMI-SKELETONIZED HORSESHOE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH SPHERICAL MOON PHASES, POWER RESERVE INDICATION AND FIRST-GENERATION MOVEMENT
DE BETHUNE. AN AVANT-GARDE AND UNUSUAL 18K WHITE GOLD SEMI-SKELETONIZED HORSESHOE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH SPHERICAL MOON PHASES, POWER RESERVE INDICATION AND FIRST-GENERATION MOVEMENT
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DE BETHUNEDBS-W
DE BETHUNE. AN AVANT-GARDE AND UNUSUAL 18K WHITE GOLD SEMI-SKELETONIZED HORSESHOE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH SPHERICAL MOON PHASES, POWER RESERVE INDICATION AND FIRST-GENERATION MOVEMENT

DBS MODEL, REF. DBS-W, NO. 014, CIRCA 2005

细节
DE BETHUNE. AN AVANT-GARDE AND UNUSUAL 18K WHITE GOLD SEMI-SKELETONIZED HORSESHOE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH SPHERICAL MOON PHASES, POWER RESERVE INDICATION AND FIRST-GENERATION MOVEMENT
DBS MODEL, REF. DBS-W, NO. 014, CIRCA 2005
Movement: Manual
Dial: Semi-skeletonized
Case: 42.6 mm. diam.
With: 18k white gold De Bethune buckle and service invoice dated 2017
Remark: First-generation movement

荣誉呈献

Remi Guillemin
Remi Guillemin Head of Watches, Europe and Americas

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拍品专文

A landmark model, the DBS was launched in 2005 as a prototype for the Only Watch charity auction. It unveiled a completely new case design that was highly innovative at the time and has since come to represent De Bethune. The present white gold DBSPS5 makes a striking statement of modern high watchmaking with its dramatic styling, which combines a white gold case with a silvered semi-skeletonized dial, and superb finishing. Its unique character is further enhanced by the 12 o'clock crown, which is reminiscent of pocket watches, the articulated hooded lug at the articulated hooded lug at the top, and the bullet-style lugs at the bottom, representing a creative blend of futuristic vision and historical reference.

The present timepiece is consigned by the family of the original owner, known for a thoughtful and focused approach to collecting complicated wristwatches. It is particularly distinguished by its first-generation movement, which differs notably from later iterations in the design of the regulating organ. It was developed prior to the introduction of De Bethune’s patented triple shock-absorption system featuring flat steel fixing springs and a resilient balance bridge conceived by Denis Flageollet in 2005. In the present timepiece, the balance bridge exhibits a characteristic rhombus-shaped architecture, overlaid with a circular openworked component used for beat adjustment. The balance itself is positioned beneath this structure, rendering it only partially visible, an arrangement that contrasts with the more exposed and visually dynamic balance systems found in the later generation.

Furthermore, the watch is equipped with a simple monometallic balance, typical of first-generation DBS models. This configuration was subsequently abandoned by De Bethune in favour of more advanced and technically sophisticated balance constructions developed by Denis Flageollet, as seen in second-generation examples. As such, the present movement represents an important stage in the evolution of the manufacture’s horological innovations. An example of a second-generation movement can be seen in lot 81.

The DBS model's design served as crucial for the development of the De Bethune brand as well as for the larger field of contemporary wristwatch design. When it was first introduced, its asymmetrical horseshoe-shaped case was thought to be out of the ordinary. The domed chapter ring, the delta-shaped movement bridge, the openworked hands recalling Breguet, and, most importantly, the brand's recognizable three-dimensional spherical moon-phase display are all components that were first introduced with the DBS and have since evolved into distinctive De Bethune hallmarks. The watch's technical prowess is highlighted by its impressive eight-day power reserve, powered by the calibre DB2014.

The DBS has been manufactured in a number of variations since its introduction, including titanium, pink gold, and white gold, such as the present timepiece. Each model maintains De Bethune's distinctive character, solidifying the DBS as one of the most significant and identifiable designs in independent watchmaking in the 21st century.

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