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Lot Essay
The combination of a stainless steel case and a salmon dial with Breguet numerals is among the most aesthetically compelling in vintage horology. The present 'Calatrava' reference 96 brings together these highly desirable attributes in a particularly harmonious manner. Its exquisite salmon-pink dial features beautifully raised, engraved hard enamel Breguet numerals and a 'long' Patek Philippe signature, placing it among the most attractive and sought-after executions of the classic time-only model.
Produced in the earliest years of the model’s history, shortly after its introduction in 1932, the present timepiece belongs to the first generation of reference 96, equipped with calibre 12'''120. Notably, it is Patek Philippe’s first serially produced wristwatch and the first created following the Stern family’s acquisition of the manufacture. The dial is especially noteworthy, as only a very small fraction of reference 96 examples were fitted with dials in such unusual colour tones. The configuration of a stainless steel case combined with a salmon-pink dial and Breguet numerals is consistent with the timepiece when it first appeared on the market 26 years ago, reinforcing the coherence of its present appearance.
Stainless steel Patek Philippe wristwatches from the vintage period are widely regarded as the most desirable across all case metals. Produced in significantly smaller numbers than their precious metal counterparts, they are almost invariably the rarest within their respective references. Reference 96 is no exception, with it being estimated that only around a quarter of total production was cased in steel, with cases manufactured by Taubert, with the casemaker hallmark 'FB' stamped on the inner side of the caseback.
A true prize for the astuste collector, it is highly unlikely that another example of reference 96 with such striking aesthetics will appear again in the foreseeable future.
Reference 96
Reference 96 is widely regarded as one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic and enduring designs. Introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family acquired the manufacture, its timeless proportions have remained remarkably relevant to this day. Drawing inspiration from Bauhaus principles, late Art Deco, and early modernism, the model represents a pure and balanced expression of 1930s design.
Known among connoisseurs as the Calatrava, reference 96 embodies an avant-garde philosophy of understated elegance. Its clean lines and restrained aesthetic have become a defining signature of Patek Philippe, establishing a design language that continues to influence the brand’s creations to this day.
Produced in the earliest years of the model’s history, shortly after its introduction in 1932, the present timepiece belongs to the first generation of reference 96, equipped with calibre 12'''120. Notably, it is Patek Philippe’s first serially produced wristwatch and the first created following the Stern family’s acquisition of the manufacture. The dial is especially noteworthy, as only a very small fraction of reference 96 examples were fitted with dials in such unusual colour tones. The configuration of a stainless steel case combined with a salmon-pink dial and Breguet numerals is consistent with the timepiece when it first appeared on the market 26 years ago, reinforcing the coherence of its present appearance.
Stainless steel Patek Philippe wristwatches from the vintage period are widely regarded as the most desirable across all case metals. Produced in significantly smaller numbers than their precious metal counterparts, they are almost invariably the rarest within their respective references. Reference 96 is no exception, with it being estimated that only around a quarter of total production was cased in steel, with cases manufactured by Taubert, with the casemaker hallmark 'FB' stamped on the inner side of the caseback.
A true prize for the astuste collector, it is highly unlikely that another example of reference 96 with such striking aesthetics will appear again in the foreseeable future.
Reference 96
Reference 96 is widely regarded as one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic and enduring designs. Introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family acquired the manufacture, its timeless proportions have remained remarkably relevant to this day. Drawing inspiration from Bauhaus principles, late Art Deco, and early modernism, the model represents a pure and balanced expression of 1930s design.
Known among connoisseurs as the Calatrava, reference 96 embodies an avant-garde philosophy of understated elegance. Its clean lines and restrained aesthetic have become a defining signature of Patek Philippe, establishing a design language that continues to influence the brand’s creations to this day.