Lot Essay
The ‘Grain de Café’ collection, first launched by Cartier creative director Jeanne Toussaint in 1938, playfully transforms the ordinary coffee bean into a jewel worthy of adornment by some of the great style icons of the 20th century including Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. Hepburn prominently wore a pair of ‘Grain de Café’ earrings for the October 1956 cover of Harper’s Bazaar shot by Richard Avedon in a high fashion presentation of the jewel.
Among the numerous occasions Kelly was depicted wearing her ‘Grain de Café’ necklace and earrings is in the first Monaco postage stamp featuring her profile, released in 1957 upon the birth of her daughter, Princess Caroline of Monaco. Worn again during her and Prince Rainier’s 1961 visit to the Kennedy White House, Kelly’s support cemented the transformation of the coffee bean motif into a glamorous jewel befitting both daily wear and formal state visits. In 2023, Cartier reintroduced the collection in a campaign modelled by Elle Fanning, acknowledging the association and paying homage to Kelly with styling reminiscent of the actress-turned-princess’s films.
The present lot, a set of diamond and gold ‘Grain de Café’ jewelry including a bracelet and pair of earrings, each circa 1955, transports the wearer to the glamorous 1950s French Riviera with its golden shine. Designed for mobility, the beans’ semi-fixed placement on the bracelet’s interior chain creates a pleasant, subtle jingle when worn. Warm yellow gold carefully engraved by hand, embellished with round diamonds, results in a joyful play of light and volume. Just desirable today as when the collection was first popularized, Christie’s is proud to present this set of Cartier ‘Grain de Café’ jewels.
Among the numerous occasions Kelly was depicted wearing her ‘Grain de Café’ necklace and earrings is in the first Monaco postage stamp featuring her profile, released in 1957 upon the birth of her daughter, Princess Caroline of Monaco. Worn again during her and Prince Rainier’s 1961 visit to the Kennedy White House, Kelly’s support cemented the transformation of the coffee bean motif into a glamorous jewel befitting both daily wear and formal state visits. In 2023, Cartier reintroduced the collection in a campaign modelled by Elle Fanning, acknowledging the association and paying homage to Kelly with styling reminiscent of the actress-turned-princess’s films.
The present lot, a set of diamond and gold ‘Grain de Café’ jewelry including a bracelet and pair of earrings, each circa 1955, transports the wearer to the glamorous 1950s French Riviera with its golden shine. Designed for mobility, the beans’ semi-fixed placement on the bracelet’s interior chain creates a pleasant, subtle jingle when worn. Warm yellow gold carefully engraved by hand, embellished with round diamonds, results in a joyful play of light and volume. Just desirable today as when the collection was first popularized, Christie’s is proud to present this set of Cartier ‘Grain de Café’ jewels.
