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Lot Essay
Extremely rare and produced in very small numbers, Universal Genève cloisonné enamel wristwatches have become highly sought-after rarities among discerning collectors. The present example is particularly distinguished by its magnificent polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting Saint George on horseback. The composition is complemented by Arabic numerals and triangular hour markers, which enhance both its legibility and visual appeal without detracting from the intricate enamel decoration. Housed in an elegant 18k pink gold case with gracefully downturned lugs and powered by a manually wound Universal Genève movement, the watch combines exceptional decorative artistry with the refined proportions and understated elegance characteristic of fine mid-century watchmaking.
Enamelling is among the most complex and demanding decorative arts in watchmaking, and the present timepiece represents a particularly fine example of the celebrated cloisonné technique. The process begins with the meticulous application of delicate gold wires to the dial, creating individual compartments known as cloisons, which define the outlines of the composition. Each compartment is then carefully filled with finely ground enamel powder in precisely selected colours before the dial is fired at high temperatures, allowing the enamel to fuse and settle. To achieve the desired depth, richness of colour and flawless finish, this painstaking procedure must be repeated numerous times, with each successive firing presenting the risk of cracking or distortion caused by thermal stress.
Adding further complexity to the process, the colours of the enamel undergo subtle transformations during firing, requiring the master enameller to anticipate the final result with extraordinary precision and expertise. Consequently, polychrome cloisonné enamelling remains an exceptionally demanding and costly decorative technique, mastered by only a small number of highly skilled artisans. The extraordinary rarity of these dials, combined with their remarkable artistic execution and captivating visual presence, places watches such as the present example among the most desirable and visually striking vintage wristwatches available to collectors today.
Saint George
One of the most celebrated figures in Christian tradition, Saint George is renowned for the legendary tale of his triumph over a dragon, a powerful allegory of courage, faith and the victory of good over evil. Traditionally depicted as a knight on horseback, often in the act of slaying the dragon, he has inspired countless works of art throughout the centuries, from medieval illuminated manuscripts to Renaissance paintings and decorative objects.
Enamelling is among the most complex and demanding decorative arts in watchmaking, and the present timepiece represents a particularly fine example of the celebrated cloisonné technique. The process begins with the meticulous application of delicate gold wires to the dial, creating individual compartments known as cloisons, which define the outlines of the composition. Each compartment is then carefully filled with finely ground enamel powder in precisely selected colours before the dial is fired at high temperatures, allowing the enamel to fuse and settle. To achieve the desired depth, richness of colour and flawless finish, this painstaking procedure must be repeated numerous times, with each successive firing presenting the risk of cracking or distortion caused by thermal stress.
Adding further complexity to the process, the colours of the enamel undergo subtle transformations during firing, requiring the master enameller to anticipate the final result with extraordinary precision and expertise. Consequently, polychrome cloisonné enamelling remains an exceptionally demanding and costly decorative technique, mastered by only a small number of highly skilled artisans. The extraordinary rarity of these dials, combined with their remarkable artistic execution and captivating visual presence, places watches such as the present example among the most desirable and visually striking vintage wristwatches available to collectors today.
Saint George
One of the most celebrated figures in Christian tradition, Saint George is renowned for the legendary tale of his triumph over a dragon, a powerful allegory of courage, faith and the victory of good over evil. Traditionally depicted as a knight on horseback, often in the act of slaying the dragon, he has inspired countless works of art throughout the centuries, from medieval illuminated manuscripts to Renaissance paintings and decorative objects.