The two most salient periods in the creation of bow-knot jewellery are the mid-17th until the late-18th Century and the first half of the twentieth century, namely the Belle Epoque and Art Deco styles. In the middle of the 1600s, the sévigné came into fashion. It consisted of a symmetric gem-set ribbon bow with twin loops. Some examples were enamelled to the reverse. The original design for this motif appears to have been drawn in 1663 by Gilles Légaré, jeweller to King Louis XIV. The shape then proliferated through copies in many European countries. At that time, they were generally worn as bodice ornaments. The name derives from that of the Marquise de Sévigné (1626-96), a member of the French court. Later ribbon bows became less symmetrical and more naturalistic. They reached another apogée during the reign of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette when ribbon and garland patterns were at the height of popularity in all artistic spheres. The Belle Epoque, with its Garland Style, experienced another incarnation of the bow. The advent of widespread use of platinum allowed for very delicate examples and also permitted articulated versions. The Art Deco period provides its own interpretations of which lots 128, 175, 248 and 399 are fine illustrations. The present brooch, with its impressive, yet chic appearance demonstrates the tendency towards the end of the Deco period for much bolder designs.