细节
ANDREW COMYN IRVINE (1902-1924)
Noel ODELL (1890-1987). A 5pp. manuscript in pencil, [1924], recto only of five 4to sheets (apparently incomplete), captioned "Andrew Comyn Irvine 1902-1924 (Obitry. Notice for 'A.[lpine] J.[ournal]'". Describing Odell's first meeting with Irvine in 1919 (Irvine on a motorbike in the Welsh mountains), Irvine's selection for and outstanding performance on the expedition to Eastern Spitzbergen in 1922, and then his selection for the Everest expedition of 1924 "Irvine was selected ... not without some opposition owing to his age of 21 at the time of selection. Though lacking in mountaineering experience it was felt that the natural aptitude he had already shown together with his undoubted gifts of mechanical & general practical ability, not to speak of temperamental suitability, fitted him for inclusion in the party, before other older men of greater experience in mountain craft". Odell goes on to describe the preparations Irvine made for the trip, and his usefulness as an expedition member, ending with "My final glimpse of one, whose personality was of that charming character that endeared him to all & whose natural gifts seemed to indicate such possibilities of both mind & body, was that he was "going strong"; sharing with that other fine character who accompanied him such a vision of sublimity that it has been the lot of few mortals to behold; nay, few while beholding have become merged into such a scene of transcendence".
A FINE MEMORIAL WRITTEN BY THE LAST MAN TO SEE MALLORY AND IRVINE ALIVE
[With]:
Andrew Comyn IRVINE. A 4pp. ALS, 27 Jan 1923, on one 8vo bifolium, to "My dear Noel [Odell]", describing, with enormous enthusiasm, his preparations for the Everest expedition, "I had a perfectly wonderful time in Switzerland ... great fun on the glaciers ... I had the very hell of a good time & climbed the snow peaks with maximum rapidity! Am looking forward awfully to starting on this show ... Aren't the mountains wonderful just asking to be climbed"
[And:] Andrew Comyn IRVINE. -- A tubular-shaped zipped canvas staff sack, [circa 1924], 940mm. long, stencilled 'A[ndrew] C[omyn] I[rvine] 1', the initials ruled through and smaller initials 'N.E.O[dell]' inked beneath.
[And:] Andrew Comyn IRVINE. -- A leather and canvas shaped case for an ice-axe, with carrying handle, [circa 1924], 1030mm. long, with stamped initials 'A.[ndrew] C.[omyn] I.[rvine]'
Provenance: Noel E. Odell (and by descent).
During the 1924 Everest expedition, led by Col. E.F. Norton, Andrew Irvine and Noel Odell were to have been the third team to attempt an assault on the summit. Odell, however, had taken longer to acclimatise than the others, and was not fit enough. George Leigh Mallory therefore took his place. Mallory and Irvine left Camp IV early on 6 June. Odell at Camp VI, about 3000 feet below the summit, caught a glimpse of them at 12.50pm, but they were never seen again. They were about 800 feet below the summit, climbing upwards, when last seen. Despite Odell's heroic efforts (twice climbing to 27,000 feet) no definite evidence of the fate of Irvine or Mallory has ever been found. (4)
Noel ODELL (1890-1987). A 5pp. manuscript in pencil, [1924], recto only of five 4to sheets (apparently incomplete), captioned "Andrew Comyn Irvine 1902-1924 (Obitry. Notice for 'A.[lpine] J.[ournal]'". Describing Odell's first meeting with Irvine in 1919 (Irvine on a motorbike in the Welsh mountains), Irvine's selection for and outstanding performance on the expedition to Eastern Spitzbergen in 1922, and then his selection for the Everest expedition of 1924 "Irvine was selected ... not without some opposition owing to his age of 21 at the time of selection. Though lacking in mountaineering experience it was felt that the natural aptitude he had already shown together with his undoubted gifts of mechanical & general practical ability, not to speak of temperamental suitability, fitted him for inclusion in the party, before other older men of greater experience in mountain craft". Odell goes on to describe the preparations Irvine made for the trip, and his usefulness as an expedition member, ending with "My final glimpse of one, whose personality was of that charming character that endeared him to all & whose natural gifts seemed to indicate such possibilities of both mind & body, was that he was "going strong"; sharing with that other fine character who accompanied him such a vision of sublimity that it has been the lot of few mortals to behold; nay, few while beholding have become merged into such a scene of transcendence".
A FINE MEMORIAL WRITTEN BY THE LAST MAN TO SEE MALLORY AND IRVINE ALIVE
[With]:
Andrew Comyn IRVINE. A 4pp. ALS, 27 Jan 1923, on one 8vo bifolium, to "My dear Noel [Odell]", describing, with enormous enthusiasm, his preparations for the Everest expedition, "I had a perfectly wonderful time in Switzerland ... great fun on the glaciers ... I had the very hell of a good time & climbed the snow peaks with maximum rapidity! Am looking forward awfully to starting on this show ... Aren't the mountains wonderful just asking to be climbed"
[And:] Andrew Comyn IRVINE. -- A tubular-shaped zipped canvas staff sack, [circa 1924], 940mm. long, stencilled 'A[ndrew] C[omyn] I[rvine] 1', the initials ruled through and smaller initials 'N.E.O[dell]' inked beneath.
[And:] Andrew Comyn IRVINE. -- A leather and canvas shaped case for an ice-axe, with carrying handle, [circa 1924], 1030mm. long, with stamped initials 'A.[ndrew] C.[omyn] I.[rvine]'
Provenance: Noel E. Odell (and by descent).
During the 1924 Everest expedition, led by Col. E.F. Norton, Andrew Irvine and Noel Odell were to have been the third team to attempt an assault on the summit. Odell, however, had taken longer to acclimatise than the others, and was not fit enough. George Leigh Mallory therefore took his place. Mallory and Irvine left Camp IV early on 6 June. Odell at Camp VI, about 3000 feet below the summit, caught a glimpse of them at 12.50pm, but they were never seen again. They were about 800 feet below the summit, climbing upwards, when last seen. Despite Odell's heroic efforts (twice climbing to 27,000 feet) no definite evidence of the fate of Irvine or Mallory has ever been found. (4)