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AN ELEGANT ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BANDEAU, BY CARTIER
Christie's is selling all lots in this sale as age… Read more
AN ELEGANT ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BANDEAU, BY CARTIER

Details
AN ELEGANT ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BANDEAU, BY CARTIER
The openwork old European-cut diamond tapering band, of geometric design, centering upon a pearl, measuring approximately 13.10 mm, enhanced by two pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum, circa 1924
Signed Cartier, no. 2419203
With report 13163096 dated 10 February 2004 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the pearl is natural
The total weight of the natural pearl is approximately 12.77 carats
Provenance
Nanaline or James B. Duke; Cartier, 1 March 1924, $23,000,
and by descent to Doris Duke
Literature
Diana Scarisbrick, "Tiara", Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 2000, page 164-165
Exhibited
"Crowning Glories: Two Centuries of Tiaras", Boston, Museum of Fine Arts, Torf Gallery, 1 March-25 June 2000
Special Notice

Christie's is selling all lots in this sale as agent for an organization which holds a State of New York Exempt Organization certificate. Seller explicitly reserves all trademark and trade name rights and rights of privacy and publicity in the name and image of Doris Duke. No buyer of any property in this sale will acquire any right to use the Doris Duke name or image. Seller further explicitly reserves all copyright rights in designs or other copyrightable works included in the property offered for sale. No buyer of any property in the sale will acquire the rights to reproduce, distribute copies of, or prepare derivative works of such designs or copyrightable works.

Lot Essay

Towards the turn of the last century, new styles of tiaras developed and increased in popularity. At the same time, a newly wealthy class of industrialists were becoming America's aristocracy and began to entertain with the same extravagance of European royalty. The charity ball and numerous private parties were new forms of socializing that gave stylish women an opportunity to wear tiaras outside of the traditional Court functions. The laurel wreath, acanthus and garland motifs were traditional types of tiaras, however, contemporary jewelers invented new styles to rejuvenate headpieces and jewelry. This tiara was purchased by either Nanaline or James B. Duke in 1924 and is an excellent example of the early Art Deco tiara. Designed to sit low on the forehead, rather than on the top of the head, this was the perfect look for the cropped boy's hairstyle favored at the time. The bandeau, with a geometric all-white diamond and platinum design, would have complimented perfectly the long sautoirs and straight and narrow silhouette.
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