AN EXTRAORDINARY FANCY VIVID YELLOW, FANCY INTENSE YELLOW, COLORED DIAMOND AND STEEL BUTTERFLY BROOCH, BY RALPH ESMERIAN, CARVIN FRENCH

The jewelry legacy that both Ralph Esmerian and André Chervin inherited goes back well into the 19th Century. Important colored stones and exquisitely made jewelry both are in their roots and it is ironic that previous generations of these individuals had not met or worked with one another. Today, they form a team that brings together stones and craftsmanship with a quality that is totally uncompromising. Artist and patron collaborating with the same goals that offer jewelry at a level rarely seen even from some of the greater jewelry houses. Ralph Esmerian's grandfather Paul began life as a lapidary worker in Constantinople and in 1890 set out for Paris. The colored stone market at this time was controlled by a small Armenian colony with Esmerian's uncle Margossian at the head. In 1919, the next generation entered the business and Paul's son Raphael entered this unique and intriguing world to pioneer colored stone cutting and trading that shaped the understanding that we have of colored stones today. By the mid 1920's, the Esmerians were Europe's leading gemstone dealers, with offices in Paris and London which brought them into close contact with the legendary Cartier brothers who in turn were turning the jewelry world on it's head with some of the most breathtaking jewelry ever seen. Raphael became a frequent traveler to New York to supply stones to Pierre Cartier and it was at this time that Esmerian became as much an aesthete as a dealer with the overriding purpose of handling beauty and not just necessarily value.R In 1976, Ralph Esmerian inherited the firm from his father, securing the business as one of the most respected in its field for over 100 years. He has continued the tradition of supplying gemstones to the very finest houses around the world, including Boucheron, Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels. At a time when gem-stone identification with regard to enhanced stones has had a huge impact on the jewelry industry, Ralph has become a pioneer to set new standards establishing once more the Esmerian name as a leader in his field. It is this legacy that has brought Ralph Esmerian to the level of a true connoisseur. As a collector, merchant and designer he is frequently referred to in the jewelry industry as "the dealer's dealer". In addition, his collection of American folk art is considered to be one of the finest in private hands and he is currently Chairman of the Board of Trustees of the Museum of American Folk Art who are presently building a new permanent home on West 53rd Street in New York City. Raised in a family of French jewelers, André Chervin was imbued with the traditions of French jewelry manufacturing. At the end of the Second World War and with Europe in tatters, two men felt that their prospects were far better in the United States of America and their skills more appreciated. So it was that André Chervin and Serge Carponcy set sail for New York. They went immediately to work for the manufacturing jewelry firm Louis Feron and in 1954 went on to establish their own business at 12 East 52nd Street. The company title they chose was an amalgamation of their two names and the European heritage they brought with them. So it was that Carvin French was born and it is now widely regarded as one of the most respected names in the world of jewelry manufacturing. Carvin French went on to work for all the great houses of New York, such as Bulgari, Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. Although Chervin is associated with technical brilliance it is not widely known that the workshop quietly has its own design resources. It is this collaboration with Ralph Esmerian that has created some of the most extraordinary pieces anyone could expect to see. The two pieces illustrated in this sale are superb examples of this unique partnership. The yellow diamond butterfly embodies every possible fantasy in a piece of jewelry, with beauty, scale and sheer vibrancy of stone. To embark on a project such as this, the first achievement was to collect a range of stones that match in color size and shape. After this the creation of such a piece has many complexities, as it is not for one man. There are polishers, setters, lapidary workers and engravers to name a few, and in reality between eight and ten people can be involved in making such a piece. Each bringing their particular skill to bear, never overlapping with the other. With this there needs to be "a workmaster" overseeing the entire project, discussing and checking with each craftsman what is needed. Additional complications arise when using unconventional mediums (in this case steel) and wanting a wing so fine and thin one can hardly imagine setting important gemstones into something so delicate. The bracelet is an almost perfect range of gemstones not only in quality but match as well. With so much jewelry now available it perhaps takes a moment to understand the rarity of such an object. When mounting stones, in even a simple setting, care is needed not to overpower color tones or lose brilliance and life. All of this needs to be taken into consideration and the eyes and hands of experience are needed to fulfill the potential of any gem. The Esmerian/Chervin partnership has explored many paths in creating extraordinary jewelry and what is so refreshing is that with eight decades of experience between them they are both as excited and motivated by beauty now as the day they embarked on their respective vocations.

Details

AN EXTRAORDINARY FANCY VIVID YELLOW, FANCY INTENSE YELLOW, COLORED DIAMOND AND STEEL BUTTERFLY BROOCH, BY RALPH ESMERIAN, CARVIN FRENCH
The pavé-set yellow diamond articulated wings, each enhanced by a larger marquise or circular-cut yellow diamond and oxidized steel veining, to the body, set with a square-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing approximately 1.23 carats, an oval-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing approximately 5.01 carats, and a pear-shaped fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing approximately 1.33 carats, extending pear and circular-cut yellow diamond antennae, mounted in oxidized steel and 18K gold
By Ralph Esmerian
With maker's mark for Carvin French
With certificate 10139641 dated 29 May 1997 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the colored diamond weighing approximately 1.23 carats is fancy intense yellow, natural color and VS2 clarity;
accompanied by a working diagram indicating that the clarity is potentially flawless, with the probability of weight loss

With certificate 8700887 dated 21 December 1995 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the colored diamond weighing approximately 5.01 carats is fancy vivid yellow, natural color and VVS2 clarity

With certificate 10139640 dated 29 May 1997 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the colored diamond weighing approximately 1.33 carats is fancy vivid yellow, natural color and VS1 clarity;
accompanied by a working diagram indicating that the clarity is improvable
Total weight of the colored diamonds on the wings and antennae is approximately 26.00 carats

Further details

PLEASE CONTINUE TO THE MAGNIFICENT JEWELS SALE LOTS 673-772

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