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Lot Essay
The apricot colour, xinghuang, of this magnificent robe was restricted for use by the heir apparent and his consort. The original tailoring of this robe, and the depiction of dragons clutching, rather than chasing, flaming pearls, signifies that it would have been made for a high-ranking individual. For these reasons, the wearer of this robe may have been Prince Yichu (1831-1861), the future Xianfeng Emperor.
In their discussion of winter dragon robes, Gary Dickinson and Linda Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, Hong Kong, 1990, p. 65, state that the use of fur as lining was probably introduced by the Manchu. In winter, the Chinese wore added layers of clothes padded with silk or cotton. They also note that it is very unusual to find robes completely lined in expensive fur, more often the garment was lined with fleece, and mink was used to line the collar and cuffs. Most winter robes found today have been stripped of their fur and the present robe is very rare in that its original fur remains. Another robe similarly lined in fleece with the front panel of the garment lined in an exotic spotted fur is illustrated in op. cit, 1990, pl. 50 and 51.
Apricot-coloured price’s robes are very rare and few extant example exist. An example of another 19th century kesi orange-ground dragon robe is in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts and is illustrated by R. Jacobsen, Imperial Silks: Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. 1, 2000, pp. 154055, no. 48.
In their discussion of winter dragon robes, Gary Dickinson and Linda Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, Hong Kong, 1990, p. 65, state that the use of fur as lining was probably introduced by the Manchu. In winter, the Chinese wore added layers of clothes padded with silk or cotton. They also note that it is very unusual to find robes completely lined in expensive fur, more often the garment was lined with fleece, and mink was used to line the collar and cuffs. Most winter robes found today have been stripped of their fur and the present robe is very rare in that its original fur remains. Another robe similarly lined in fleece with the front panel of the garment lined in an exotic spotted fur is illustrated in op. cit, 1990, pl. 50 and 51.
Apricot-coloured price’s robes are very rare and few extant example exist. An example of another 19th century kesi orange-ground dragon robe is in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts and is illustrated by R. Jacobsen, Imperial Silks: Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. 1, 2000, pp. 154055, no. 48.