AN IMPERIAL YELLOW KESI TWELVE SYMBOL 'DRAGON ROBE', LONGPAO
AN IMPERIAL YELLOW KESI TWELVE SYMBOL 'DRAGON ROBE', LONGPAO
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PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF AN AMERICAN GENTLEMAN
清光緒 御製黃地緙絲金龍十二章龍袍十二章紋為滿族皇室在1759年後首先採用,配合清宮織物的基本裝飾原則,有別於明代宮廷禮服的視覺美學,但仍彰顯自古以來帝王獨享的顯赫地位。十二章紋順序分佈在清代皇帝袞服的各個位置:日、月、星辰、山在肩、襟及背;黻、黼、龍、華蟲在腰;宗彝、藻、粉米、火在下擺。本拍品之龍紋以金線巧繡,黃地上以彩雲點綴,紋飾華麗,熠熠生輝。傳世採用黃藍兩色兼飾有十二章紋袍服的最早例子藏於倫敦,斷代為十八世紀末,見G Dickinson及L. Wrigglesworth著,《Imperial Wardrobe》,倫敦,1990年,頁32—33,圖版23。其餘包括本拍品等能流傳至今之例其斷代均為十九世紀,見J. E. Vollmer著,《Decoding Dragons: Status Garments in Ch’ing dynasty China》,俄勒岡大學美術館,1983年,頁143及209。

GUANGXU PERIOD (1875-1908)

細節
清光緒 御製黃地緙絲金龍十二章龍袍

十二章紋為滿族皇室在1759年後首先採用,配合清宮織物的基本裝飾原則,有別於明代宮廷禮服的視覺美學,但仍彰顯自古以來帝王獨享的顯赫地位。十二章紋順序分佈在清代皇帝袞服的各個位置:日、月、星辰、山在肩、襟及背;黻、黼、龍、華蟲在腰;宗彝、藻、粉米、火在下擺。

本拍品之龍紋以金線巧繡,黃地上以彩雲點綴,紋飾華麗,熠熠生輝。傳世採用黃藍兩色兼飾有十二章紋袍服的最早例子藏於倫敦,斷代為十八世紀末,見G Dickinson及L. Wrigglesworth著,《Imperial Wardrobe》,倫敦,1990年,頁32—33,圖版23。其餘包括本拍品等能流傳至今之例其斷代均為十九世紀,見J. E. Vollmer著,《Decoding Dragons:
Status Garments in Ch’ing dynasty China》,俄勒岡大學美術館,1983年,頁143及209。
56 in. (142.2 cm.) long, 85 ¾ in. (217.8 cm.) wide
來源
Sotheby's New York, 23 March 2004, lot 553.

拍品專文

The Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority first appeared on the Manchu emperor's clothing after 1759. These symbols were superimposed on the general decorative schema of Qing court garments, losing the visual prominence they had enjoyed during the Ming dynasty. Nonetheless, they emphatically demonstrated the Qing intention of embracing the traditional role as rulers of the Chinese empire. Under the Qing the first four symbols--sun, moon, stars, and mountain--were placed at the shoulders, chest and mid-back. The symbol of distinction (fu), axe, paired dragons, and the golden pheasant appeared at waist level. Temple-cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet, and flames were placed at knee level on the skirts of the coat.
The dragons on this robe are worked in gold-wrapped threads, with clouds primarily in shades of blue against a yellow ground. Among the earliest examples of the predominant blue and yellow schema for an emperor's twelve-symbol 'dragon' robe is an embroidered satin robe in a London collection that dates to the late eighteenth century. See G. Dickinson and L. Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, London, 1990, p. 32-33, pl. 23. However, most surviving pieces, like this example, date from the nineteenth century. See J. E. Vollmer, Decoding Dragons: Status Garments in Ch'ing dynasty China, Eugene, Oregon, Museum of Art, 1983. pp. 143 and 209.

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