Breguet. A Very Rare and Unusual Stainless Steel Automatic Diver's Wristwatch with Center Seconds, Date and Bakelite bezel
Breguet. A Very Rare and Unusual Stainless Steel Automatic Diver's Wristwatch with Center Seconds, Date and Bakelite bezel

Signed Breguet, No. 1622, Manufactured in 1962

Details
Breguet. A Very Rare and Unusual Stainless Steel Automatic Diver's Wristwatch with Center Seconds, Date and Bakelite bezel
Signed Breguet, No. 1622, Manufactured in 1962
Cal. AS 1581 automatic jewelled lever movement, black matte dial, luminous dot, dagger and baton numerals, luminous hands, outer minute divisions, center seconds, date aperture, circular water-resistant type case, revolving black Bakelite bezel calibrated for 60 units, screw back, case numbered, dial signed

37mm diam.

Lot Essay

According to the Archives of Montres Breguet the present watch was sold on October 31st, 1962.

Unknown from literature, diving watches made by Breguet are doubtlessly amongst the scarcest models ever produced by the celebrated house. The present example is part of an exceedingly small series of such diver's watches produced by Breguet in the mid-1960s, the exact number unknown but believed to be less than 60 and with varying dial styles.

In fact, only three of these vintage diving watches made by Breguet are known to the market. In May, Christie’s sold one in Geneva with luminous Arabic numerals on the dial for the equivalent of $100,886.

The watch offered here for sale impresses for a diver's watch with an unusually powerful yet minimalist design. The slender black bakelite bezel features subtle five minute divisions and the dial bearing only the signature "Breguet". Of strongest visual interest are the incredibly large circular lume plots, which no doubt were designed for easier reading of the time underwater, in dark places or at night.

The comparatively thin screw back case is likely to be water-resistant to at least 100 meters, standard at the time of its production. It is fitted with a robust automatic movement caliber 1581 by A. Schild, one of the first ébauche makers founded in Grenchen, Switzerland, in 1896. The firm specialized in the production of high quality ébauches with all parts being interchangeable for which it won a gold medal at the Swiss National Exhibition in Berne in 1914. A. Schild supplied ébauches to several renowned watch manufacturers in Switzerland.

Preserved in very good, original overall condition, fresh to the market and of extraordinary rarity, the present "montre plongeur" is a trophy for the collector of unusual sport's watches.

We are indebted to Mr. Emmanuel Breguet for his valuable assistance in researching the present timepiece.

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