Cartier. An extremely fine and rare 18K gold tonneau-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch with register
Cartier. An extremely fine and rare 18K gold tonneau-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch with register

SIGNED CARTIER, TORTUE A PATTES MODEL, CASE NO. 23'228, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH CO. INC., NO. 32829, MANUFACTURED IN 1929

Details
Cartier. An extremely fine and rare 18K gold tonneau-shaped single button chronograph wristwatch with register
Signed Cartier, Tortue a Pattes model, case no. 23'228, movement signed European Watch Co. Inc., No. 32829, manufactured in 1929
With nickel-finished lever movement, 25 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, the silvered matt dial with black enamel Roman numerals, outer Arabic five minute divisions, blued steel moon-style hands, two subsidiary dials indicating constant seconds and 30 minutes register, in tonneau-shaped case with back secured by four screws in the band, single button chronograph functions operated through the crown, together with an 18K pink gold Cartier deployant clasp no. 23525, case hand-stamped with Cartier reference number 23228, initials GS and London datemark for 1935, dial signed Cartier, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc. and numbered underneath the dial
27 mm. wide & 35 mm. overall length

Lot Essay

Accompanied by Cartier Certificate of Authenticity No. GE2003-210 dated 9 May 2003 confirming production of the present watch in 1929. Furthermore delivered with Cartier red leather presentation box.

The case of the watch is stamped with The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. Ltd. hallmark, one of the leading English manufacturers and retailers of fine watches, silver and jewelery situated at 112 Regent Street, London. In 1952 the company merged with the renowned jeweler Garrard & Co.

The tonneau-shaped "tortue à pattes" or "turtle on legs" wristwatch was designed by Cartier around 1910. The shape of the case was made to resemble a turtle, a very popular animal during this era and symbol of good fortune and longevity in many civilisations.

In 1928, Cartier launched the single button chronograph wristwatch with a "tortue" case.

For a single button chronograph wristwatch illustrated in literature see The Cartier Museum at the Goldsmiths' Hall London, Exhibition 23rd May - 10th June 1988 catalogue, p. 50, pl. XXXVII. It is interesting to note that the watch of this exhibition was formerly owned by Edsel Ford, showing the respect and esteem this model enjoyed amongst international high society.

The model is furthermore illustrated in Le Temps de Cartier by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti and Franco Nencini, pp. 164-165 and in Armbanduhren - 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte by Kahlert, Mühe, Brunner, fifth edition, p. 337, pl. 1024.
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