THE PORTLAND ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL TIARA

Details

THE PORTLAND ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL TIARA
Designed as a series of twelve graduated cushion-shaped sapphire and old-cut diamond clusters to the openwork frame of diamond-set swag and husk motifs, embellished with bouton-shaped pearls and diamond line borders to the pear-shaped pearl finials and sapphire collet accents, mounted in silver and gold, circa 1890, inner circumference 54.0cm
Accompanied by report No. 57829 dated 15 November 2010 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating the origin of five sapphires is Ceylon, of four sapphires is Burma and of could not be determined for the remaining three. A sample of three pearls was tested and they were found to be natural saltwater

Literature

Geoffrey C. Munn, Tiaras a History of Splendour, Antique Collectors' Club, 1988, pl 86, 87 and 88

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Lot Essay

The tiara is thought to have been made by E. Wolff & Co. for Garrard shortly after the 6th Duke's marriage in 1889. A painted miniature on ivory of Ivy, Duchess of Portland (1887-1982), when she was Marchioness of Titchfield, depicts her wearing the tiara and the matching stomacher brooch. Ivy was the 7th Duke's wife.

It is noted in the 1887 inventory that several of the family jewels were dismantled to construct the tiara.

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