The Art Deco period was marked by a celebration of geometric patterns and bold use of color, a sharp contrast from the soft, delicate style of the proceeding Art Nouveau era. Colored gemstones, old-cut diamonds and shiny platinum were used to design iconic jewels that were popular throughout the 1920s and 1930s and remain highly sought-after by collectors, over nearly a century later.
In the 1930s, Cartier London began to produce exquisitely designed jewels set with aquamarines and diamonds, offering jewels with a beautiful combination of color, light and scintillation. Aquamarines can range greatly in carat weight and can be cut into a variety of different shapes and sizes, making the gemstone desirable to work with. Cartier made great use of this bright gemstone to create some of their most striking and intricate designs.
According to Judy Rudoe in Cartier: 1900-1939 (London 1997), p. 263,
'Much of Cartier's aquamarine jewelry seems to have been made by the London branch, where it appears in the records from 1932. Aquamarines were popular not only with the London clientele but also with the American clients of both the London and Paris branches. ... Another American client, Elsie de Wolfe (then aged 70), commissioned an aquamarine tiara from Cartier Paris and, true to form, had her hair tinted to match it.'