A SUITE OF AQUAMARINE, DIAMOND AND GOLD JEWELRY
A pendant necklace, centering upon a modified rectangular-cut aquamarine measuring approximately 28.00 x 17.70 x 12.00 mm, within a textured matte-finished gold scrolling mount depicting grape leaves and vines, enhanced by old European-cut diamonds, suspended from a gold grape leaf link chain, alternately-spaced by circular-cut diamonds and aquamarines, mounted in platinum and gold (with additional links)--16½ ins. long, and a brooch en suite, a pair of aquamarine, diamond, pearl, platinum and gold ear pendants of similar design, a pair of aquamarine, pearl and gold ear pendants, an aquamarine, citrine and gold pendant on a gold chain, an aquamarine and 14K gold ring; an aquamarine and 18K gold fancy link bracelet--7¼ ins. long; and an aquamarine and 14K gold fancy link bracelet--7 3/8 ins. long, in a monogramed leather fitted case, circa 1920
Necklace signed by Tiffany & Co., designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany
Louis Comfort Tiffany began designing jewelry in 1902, under the aegis of his glass studio, Tiffany Furnaces. In 1907, this division was purchased by Tiffany & Co. and, from this time until the department closed in 1933, all the jewelry which Louis Tiffany created was made at Tiffany & Co. and bears that firms mark.
The jewelry that Louis Comfort Tiffany designed was predominantly inspired by two sources: nature and historicism. Those pieces based on nature are the most sought after. Usually, they are designed with a central stone, surrounded by a vine pattern, as seen on the illustrated necklace. Grape leaves are interspersed with diamonds and sapphires, imitating grapes, the motif continuing onto the underside. This necklace is similar to a platinum necklace illustrated in a scrapbook executed by Meta Overbeck, which is part of the collection of the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art in Winter Park, Florida. It is numbered 5491 in the scrapbook, indicating it was made c. 1918-1922. Overbeck was in charge of Tiffany's jewelry division from 1914 until 1933. The jewelry made while she was head of this department tends to be larger in scale and set with faceted gemstones, typified by this necklace.
This necklace is placed, en suite, into a Tiffany & Co. fitted box. The other pieces in this set complement the necklace and were probably jewelry that the original owner, Elisabeth Hand, selected at the store. One piece, a ring, is stamped with the mark for Jones & Woodland, a jewelry maker in Newark, New Jersey who made jewelry for Tiffany & Co.
Janet Zapata (8)