This 18th century chintz has been reworked in France in the first half of the 20th century. The work has been tentatively attributed to the French fashion designer Paul Poiret (1879-1944).
Luxuriant foliage and trees became the main decorative subject for chintz textiles exported to Europe throughout the 18th century and into the 19th century. These exquisite painted textiles were first imported to countries such as England for use as bed and wall-hangings and quickly migrated to many other types of furnishings and clothing.
The decorative motif of the present piece with large floral sprays within a lattice of cusped medallions can be compared to that on a panel of chintz in the Metropolitan Museum of Art which is dated to the second quarter of the 18th century, also applied with gold leaf (Amelia Peck, ed., Interwoven Globe, exhibition catalogue, New York, 2014, cat.47B, pp.198-199). There is a clear influence of French and European lace-patterned woven silks, described in the second half of the 18th century as 'persienne', as those show a clear organization of the decoration in blossoming floral sprays within cusped medallions (Amelia Peck, ed., op.cit., cat.47A, p.198). This style of chintz has survived in good number in garments associated with the Dutch market.