It is very interesting to note that one of the most favoured gemstones of the Mughals, the Old Indian emerald actually came from Colombia via the Portuguese port of Goa. From there the stones were sent out to be cut and carved into bazubands, taviz or simply beads. The origins of the floral and foliate carvings grew from the tradition of engraving the stones with the name of the Mughal emperors and was done, not only to bring out the regal colour and enhance the beauty of the stone, but also to show respect for the qualities the stone had been endowed with. Usually the emerald was carved with a rosette or a flowering plant, the poppy flower being the favorite just as the present carved emerald, a motif that developed under the reign of Jahangir after his visit to Kashmir in 1620, and was further enhanced under the influence of Herbal Prints.
These carved gems made their way to Europe early in the 20th Century and have since been of great influence on Western jewellery. The magic of these engraved stones still inspires today the greatest jewellery designers.