AT 2:30 P.M.
A RARE ART DECO DIAMOND BROOCH, BY RAYMOND TEMPLIER
Designed as a pavé-set diamond and platinum draped crescent and scroll motif, enhanced by larger old European-cut diamonds, in a suede case, circa 1935
Signed by Raymond Templier
Raymond Templier descended from a family of fine Parisian jewelers. He joined his father's firm in 1919, designing jewelry in the geometric style, favoring the smooth, cool surface of platinum over gold. His unique style borrowed elements from the mechanical world.
Templier was a founding member of the Union des Artistes Modernes which believed that design was paramount, materials secondary. According to the organization's manifesto, "A work only has true unity when one can take nothing away without drastic damage" (quoted from Sylvie Raulet, Art Deco Jewelry, p.173). The illustrated brooch epitomizes this credo in its overall design. A diamond studded scroll motif is set within a curled platinum sheet; the uppermost piece folded at either end to heighten the rounded effect. Templier has set large diamonds at the base of the diamond pavé scroll, giving the allusion of a mask. Although designed formally as a brooch, in its design and execution this piece approaches a free-standing art form.