A SPECTACULAR SUITE OF DIAMOND AND CABOCHON EMERALD, AMETHYST AND TURQUOISE JEWELRY, BY BULGARI
A necklace, the flexible V-shaped bib set with circular cabochon emeralds, amethysts and turquoise, each within a circular-cut diamond and gold drop-shaped frame, suspended from and interspersed by circular-cut diamonds and smaller cabochon turquoise, mounted in platinum and 18K gold--15¾ ins. long; and a pair of ear pendants en suite, with French hallmarks, in a leather fitted case, circa 1965
Signed by Bulgari
Total weight of the emeralds, the amethysts, the diamonds and the turquoise approximately 63.00, 51.00, 38.50 and 35.00 cts.
Acording to Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi in Bulgari, in the early 1960s Bulgari formulated a new, distinctive style in reaction to the firm's earlier jewelry based on flower motifs. Jewelry designs became more "structured, symmetrical and compact. . . with highly important gemstones enclosed in smooth rather than jagged borders." Their jewelry became more substantial with gemstones cut en cabochon and stones chosen not so much for their intrinsic value as for their unique color combinations. This suite epitomizes Bulgari's jewelry from this period, featuring cabochon emeralds, amethysts and turquoise set en masse. The overall bib-style is inspired by mid-nineteenth century Indian necklaces, the eastern theme continued onto the pierced rosette on the reverse of the clasp. For more information and an illustration of this suite, see Daniella Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Bulgari, Milan, 1996, pages 44 and 77-87. (2)