AN EMERALD AND ROCK CRYSTAL RING, BY BELPERRON
The shaped rock crystal mount set with a cut-cornered rectangular-cut emerald, within a calibré-cut emerald and platinum frame, circa 1935--size 6½
By Suzanne Belperron
Bold, artistic, the play of primary colors and use of carved gem materials are the hallmarks of Suzanne Belperron's distinctive jewelry. Beginning her design career with René Boivin in the 1920s, her style evolved into the thirties with softer outlines based on swirls, rounded arches and stepped motifs. By utilizing carved gem materials such as chalcedony, citrine, onyx and rock crystal to dictate the design, she broke with traditional jewelry conventions in which metal determined the shape of a piece of jewelry. In the case of the two illustrated rings, rock crystal provides the overall shapes and structures as bold backdrops for elegant ruby and diamond bands in one and an all-emerald design in the other; the stones seeming to float in space. The brooch is delineated by a semi-circle of ribbed rock crystal which also presents a striking contrast to the arched diamond-studded structure that makes up the body of this imaginative piece.