AN EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND, NEPHRITE AND BLACK ONYX BRACELET, BY GERGE VERGER ET FILS
Designed as three circular-cut diamond and nephrite articulated panels, enhanced by single and circular-cut diamond floral motifs, joined by old European-cut diamond square links, with black onyx accents, mounted in platinum, circa 1925--7 1/8 ins. long
With maker's mark for George Verger et Fils, Paris
Along with the rectilinear style commonly associated with the Art Deco period, designers turned to the art of the east for inspiration. Chinese and Japanese motifs and materials made their way into jewelry design. The alternating square and rectangular elements on the illustrated bracelet reflects the period's interest in geometric forms while the use of nephrite is eastern. Each rectangular segment is made up of articulated panels of nephrite with diamond divisions separating each part. Branches of flowering Japanese wild cherries decorate the surface; the floral motifs softening the agularity of the geometric shapes. The reverse has been finished with the same attention to detail as the front side. Branches with cherry flowers in platinum have replaced the jeweled flowers.
The illustrated bracelet was made by the prestigious Parisian jeweler, Georges Verger et Fils. This maison is known for their collaboration with Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels, Linzeler and Marchak, as well as with Cartier for the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs.
Bracelets with rectangular plaques and incorporating eastern motifs and materials were popular during the Art Deco period. For illustrations of other bracelets with variations on this theme, see Sylvie Raulet, Art Deco Jewelry, New York, 1985, page 151 and I gioielli degli anni '20-40 Cartier e i grandi del Deco, an exhibition held at the Palazzo Fortuny, Venice, September 7 to November 2, 1986, page 40.