Lots eleven, thirteen and nineteen were created by the animal sculptor Robert Lemoine. At the beginning of his career, in the 1920s and 30s, Lemoine produced Blackamoor heads for Cartier. He was later employed by Pierre Sterl, for whom he created mother-of-pearl flowers. This led to work with Chaumet, of which the octopus necklace, the Dali-esque lips red and pink coral lipstick holder and the panther claw are superb examples. These jewels uphold the firm's tradition for finely carved hardstone pieces which was begun by Jean-Valentin Morel, director of the London branch of Nitot & Fils, the jeweller which ultimately became Chaumet.