ART DECO CARVED RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET
The single and circular-cut diamond openwork band, enhanced by carved ruby and emerald leaves, fruit and berries, with a cabochon ruby and circular-cut diamond buckle clasp, mounted in platinum, circa 1927 --7¼ in. long
Signed by Charlton
Besides it's emphasis on geometric motifs, the Art Deco period is characterised by Eastern themes adapted from Egypt, China and India. Engraved precious gemstones, imported from India, became popular in jewelry design, beginning in the mid 1920s. Evident first in jewelry designed by Cartier in Paris, this vogue crossed the Atlantic and was seen in jewelry created by American jewelers including Charlton & Co. Emeralds, the stones most preferred in India, and rubies were cut into blossoms, leaves and berry shapes, inspired by the Islamic flower cult of Mogul emporors. The design on this bracelet, which dates to November 1927, is based on a stylized vine. Emerald and ruby flowers and leaves grow from a branch which has been embelished with circualr-cut diamonds.