MADEIRA
Madeira is the name of both the volcanic Portuguese island off the
coast of North Africa, and the fortified wine made there. The four
classic types of Madeira are named after the grapes from which they are
made: Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malvasia. All four of these types of
Madeira are still in production today and typically have high natural
acidity. Two other grape varieties, Terrantez and Bastardo are much
rarer as they are very susceptible to disease and were almost wiped out
by phylloxera and are only seen in voluminous and comprehensive Madeira
collections like the one offered here today. The majority of Madeira,
however, is made from a grape called tinta negra mole, or
tinta. Technically, tinta is considered a "good variety" as
opposed to a "noble" one and as such, none of the wines in this
extraordinary collection contain that grape. Here, we are offering only
the finest and noblest.
To make Madeira, fermentation of the grapes is usually stopped by the
addition of alcohol. In the middle of the 18th Century brandy was
first used to fortify and also stablilise the wine for shipment to
England and her colonies. The wine can then be additionally sweetened,
then undergoes estufa. Estufa, one of the most unique wine
making processes in the world, came about quite by accident. Madeira
was ideally located as a stopping point for ships destined for the East
and West Indies. Since the majority of the Madeira was made for export,
the wine often spent long periods of time ageing in casks being used as
ballast in the holds of shipping vessels. When it was discovered that
the slow heating of the wine had a positive effect, the merchants
preferred that the wine cross the tropics twice in order for it to
reach full maturity. This process of heat and controlled oxidation lead
to the invention of the estufa system, currently in use, as a way
of replicating these ocean voyages. In the estufagem, the fortified
wine is heated to (by law) between 40 and 50 degrees Centigrade for a
legal minimum of three months. After the wine has been heated it is
cooled (special care being taken to ensure that the wine does not
over-oxidize) and then placed in "pipes" for the resting period known
as estagio for a year or more, after which it is stored in casks of
a solera (much like sherry) or observed for potential as vintage
Madeira.
Michael Broadbent writing in his book Vintage Wine stated that
"Madeira has always been one of my favourite wines, and I am glad to
say, vintage Madeira is making a comeback".
Malvasia
Malvasia (both Malvasia Cândida and Malvasia Babosa) is the most
classic grape on the island of Madeira, having been cultivated since
the 15th century. Known as "Malmsey" in England, Malvasia Cândida
almost became extinct in the mid-20th Century. Malvasia is a fickle
grape; it only survives at low altitudes and in sunny, sheltered
locations to protect it from mildew and rot. Madeira made from Malvasia
is sweet but balanced by very high levels of acidity.
Boal
Boal grows at low altitudes on the south end of the island of Madeira.
Madeiras made from this grape are rich, raisiny and retain their
acidity quite well. The grapes are low-yielding and compact bunches of
small, sweet grapes.
Verdelho
Verdelho, a once ubiquitous grape on the island of Madeira, was all but
wiped out by phylloxera. Elevated to noble status at the beginning of
the 20th Century, Verdelho is grown mainly on the north end of the
island, where it is planted close to the ground as opposed to on
trellises. Verdelho usually produces a medium-dry wine which develops
hints of smokiness as it ages.
Sercial
The same variety as the mainland's Esganocão, Sercial is known
for its mouth-puckering acidity. It typically produces drier wines with
almond overtones and stunning clarity.
Terrantez
Terrantez grapes were first recorded in Madeira in the early
18th-century. Another grape that nearly died out during the phylloxera
epidemic, Terrantez grapes have fairly high sugar content. This sale
offers the opportunity to purchase wines from a grape that is currently
nearly extinct: the current Terrantez harvest does not produce enough
juice to fill a single barrel. As the Portuguese saying goes, As
uvas de Terrantez, não as comas nem as dês, para vinho Deus as
fez" The grapes of Terrantez are not for eating or giving away; God
created them for wine.
Bastardo
Bastardo, known in France as Trousseau, it is also used in the Douro to
make Port. Often used to make somewhat dry wines, it is no longer grown
in any substantial quantity on Madeira.
Michael Broadbent's "Vintages at a Glance," from Vintage
Wine
Outstanding *****
1793, 1795, 1798, 1802, 1822, 1830, 1836, 1846, 1862, 1868, 1900, 1901,
1910, 1936
Very Good ****
1789, 1792, 1821, 1826, 1827, 1834, 1837, 1839, 1850, 1860, 1863, 1870,
1875, 1893, 1895, 1898, 1899, 1908, 1911, 1914, 1920, 1926, 1934, 1939,
1940, 1941, 1954, 1957, 1966, 1968
Good ***
1811, 1815, 1832, 1845, 1864, 1877, 1879, 1891, 1892, 1903, 1905, 1907,
1912, 1913, 1915, 1916, 1927, 1933, 1935, 1945, 1952, 1958, 1960, 1964