A woman ahead of her time, Suzanne Belperron (1900 – 1983) was one of the most enigmatic and influential figures of 20th century jewelry design.

In 1921, Suzanne Belperron (née Vuillerme) was hired by the prestigious French firm Boivin. Starting in sales and later becoming a designer herself, Belperron’s decade long tenure working under Jeanne Boivin exposed her to the maverick style so indicative of the firm’s oeuvre.

Adept at juxtaposing non-precious materials, such as agate, quartz and rock crystal with gemstones, Belperron carried this signature style with her when she departed Boivin and began an association with pearl dealer Bernard Herz in 1933. The firm of Herz-Belperron, whose creations were executed by Darde et Fils, soon won the accolades of an intimate and influential group of collectors, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elsa Schiaparelli, Diana Vreeland and Frank Sinatra.

This impressive collection includes 15 jewels by Belperron, three of which originate from her own personal collection (Lots 61 – 63). A result of the meticulous curation by the present owner and her distinguished eye, this is one of the most important assemblages of Belperron jewelry to come to auction. The collection effortlessly highlights the quintessential elements of what makes Belperron enchantingly sublime: a distinctive sense of color, an imaginative use of materials and brazenly bold sculptural design.

The 'Facetté' cuff (Lot 75) draws upon Belperron’s ability to incorporate semi-precious materials such as silver and rock crystal to create an impactful oversized geometric bracelet. Most famously owned by Diana Vreeland, the renowned editor was photographed wearing the cuff on multiple occasions including at an event at the nightclub El Morocco in New York in 1938.

In a nod to Belperron’s uncanny ability to mold hardstones with a near absence of metalwork, Lot 64 is a bangle comprised of almost entirely sculpted smoky quartz enhanced by cabochon sapphires. Weighing a half-pound, the scale of the bracelet is significant, yet sleek and sophisticated. In the same vein, the smoky quartz ring (Lot 63) from Belperron’s personal collection and agate ring (Lot 70) impressively wrap around the finger without a traditional metal shank. Unable to be sized due to the nature of the material, each have impressively stood the test of time and wear.

The aquamarine bracelet (Lot 72), along with the citrine and sapphire cuffs (Lots 66 and 71) each display Belperron’s unique use of color. Though subdued in nature, these materials, whether cabochon-shaped or faceted, enhance her designs without overpowering their stylized mountings. The texture and color work together to create the enduring sophistication of which Belperron jewelry exudes to this day.

Belperron’s unique combination of characteristics were a departure from the confines of the earlier Art Deco style and today remain timelessly modern. She never signed her jewels, believing that they would be instantly recognized as her design. Christie’s is proud to offer the opportunity to acquire one of these emblematic jewels of which no comprehensive jewelry collection is complete without.