SUBMARINER MODEL, REF. 1680⁄8, CASE NO. 3'291'034, CIRCA 1973

The history of the Rolex Submariner in 18k gold reflects the evolution of a pure tool watch into a symbol of luxurious capability. Introduced in the late 1960s and officially designated as reference 1680⁄8, it was the brand's first gold Submariner and reimagined the Maison's famed diving instrument in a precious-metal format, pairing the robust 40 mm. Oyster case with the warmth and weight of solid yellow gold.

Available in a black or blue dial with matching bezel colors, it is worth noting that many blue dials wonderfully aged to brown, orange, or even purple shades, such as seen in the present lot. Over the decades, subsequent references—including the 16808, 16618, and today’s 41mm variants—continued refining the formula with sapphire crystals, case and bezel materials, and improved movements. What remained unchanged was the Submariner’s core promise: uncompromising reliability at depth, now expressed through the prestige and presence of 18k gold.