How we know your Hermès handbag is the real deal

Hermès bags are coveted by collectors for their quality and exclusivity. ‘They are now the most valuable handbags in the world,’ says Rachel Koffsky Parker, international head of Handbags and Accessories at Christie’s in New York. ‘The rarest of these are the Hermès Himalaya bags, which feature a colour gradation that resembles the snow-capped Himalaya mountains.’ In 2021, a Himalaya Kelly 28 with 18k white gold and diamond hardware sold for HK$4,000,000 (around US$513,000) at Christie’s in Hong Kong, a record price for any Kelly sold at auction anywhere.

The Faubourg Birkin has also performed exceptionally well, with a rare Snow example selling for HK$4,318,000 in May 2026, and a limited-edition Rouge fetching €635,000 in June.

As demand has continued to increase, however, so too has the number of counterfeit Hermès bags on the market. ‘When authenticating Hermès bags prior to sale, we look for subtle but important idiosyncrasies in the material, construction and hardware,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘It is important to keep in mind, however, that Hermès bags are primarily made by hand, so there are exceptions to every rule. You should seek advice from a trusted expert to verify the authenticity if in doubt.’

Here, the specialist outlines a number of key steps to establish whether a bag is the genuine article.

‘Hermès is known for its exceptional craftsmanship and for using only the highest-quality materials,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘Each of the house’s signature leathers or skins has a distinct texture, weight and scent, so it’s important to familiarise yourself with the various materials’ natural properties.’

Hermès Togo leather, for instance, has a suppleness that makes it well suited to softer silhouettes such as the Birkin. Hermès Epsom leather, on the other hand, is lightweight, scratch-resistant and shape-retaining, making it ideal for structured silhouettes such as the Kelly Sellier or the Constance. ‘Hermès leathers correspond to particular styles and eras, so the leather of your model should be consistent with the year of production,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘Hermès Evercolor leather, for instance, was only introduced in 2013, so it should not appear on any bag made before that date.’

Equally important is the colour of the leather. ‘The leather should be evenly saturated, and its colour should appear in the Hermès colour chart,’ Koffsky Parker explains, adding that the colour on counterfeits can sometimes look and feel as though it has been painted on. ‘Hermès produces a limited number of shades in its tanneries, so any variation from these indicates a counterfeit.’

As for the interior, authentic Hermès bags are usually lined with high-quality, supple leather — typically Chèvre, a goatskin that is grained rather than smooth. The interior should always be in an official Hermès colour and match the shade of the exterior. If you see a bag with a lining made of cheap synthetic materials, vinyl or fabric glued to the sides, it is likely a fake.

The stitch on which the brand’s reputation is based — the saddle — cannot be replicated by a machine, because it requires two needles simultaneously passing through the same seam. If done correctly, the saddle stitch will never unravel — whether on a saddle or a Birkin.

‘The stitching shouldn’t look like it has been machine-sewn,’ says Koffsky Parker, who adds that each Birkin bag takes around 40 hours to craft by hand. ‘In fact, it should slant slightly upwards.’

Although known for its high-quality leatherwork, Hermès also invests heavily in the design and production of its hardware. ‘It takes at least a year for Hermès to develop and produce a new piece of hardware,’ says Koffsky Parker, explaining that the brand works closely with a silverware workshop on each new prototype.

When it comes to authenticating Hermès bags, it’s important to inspect the quality and finish of the zips, clasps, feet and locks. The movement of the zips, for instance, should be smooth and weighty, while the swivel lock closure should be easy to turn. As for the metal feet, they should be securely hammered in rather than glued. ‘If you can easily twist or unscrew the feet, you should investigate further,’ says Koffsky Parker.

Not all Hermès handbags come with padlocks, but those that do will have a set of corresponding keys (though in some cases these will have been lost over time). The numbers on the keys will match the number engraved on the padlock. The keys to a Birkin or Kelly bag are stored inside a small, bell-shaped leather accessory known as the clochette. ‘The clochette should feel substantial and be crafted from one piece of leather,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘Its shape should remain quite flat, even with keys placed inside.’

The engravings on all Hermès hardware should be crisp and precise, never shallow or blurred. It’s important to look at the finish, too. Hermès hardware is made of brass plated with various precious metals, including palladium and gold. ‘You shouldn’t see any peeling or flaking, so significant damage to the hardware should be seen as a red flag,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘Testing the alloy content can help distinguish an authentic bag from a counterfeit.’

Whether on the interior or the exterior of the bag, Hermès stamps should be crisp and clean. On models produced after 1965, the Hermès logo stamp — ‘Hermès Paris Made in France’ — should be centred, evenly spaced and embossed into the leather. ‘Poor alignment, uneven lettering or misspelling are immediate causes for concern,’ says Koffsky Parker. The font and colour of the logo stamp are also important. ‘The words are typically spread across three lines and in a font that grows progressively smaller with each line,’ says the specialist. ‘The colour of the stamp usually matches that of the hardware.’

Then there’s the date stamp, also known as the ‘blind stamp’, which is usually located on the interior flap or side gusset. Although the font and format of Hermès date stamps has varied over the years — from letters within shapes to standalone letters — each format corresponds to a specific era, so a mismatch between the stamp and the bag’s style or materials can signal a counterfeit. ‘The blind stamp is intended to be a very subtle marking,’ notes Koffsky Parker, who explains that many counterfeiters emboss too hard, creating a stamp that is too deeply pressed into the leather. It’s important to note, however, that not all authentic Hermès bags have blind stamps.

Exotic skins will have an additional marking — **, ^, -, = or □ — near the logo stamp. Each of these marks corresponds to a specific skin.

Hermès bags are renowned for their balanced proportions. Authentic examples tend to retain their shape and structure, thanks to their premium leather and hand-stitched construction. ‘However, we have seen authentic bags over the years with crumples, creases and collapsed handles,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘Take your bag to a trusted expert if you need a second opinion.’

Authentic Hermès boxes are sturdy and finished in the brand’s signature shade of bright orange, known as ‘Orange H’, which has been its hallmark colour since the Second World War. Hermès boxes have dark chocolate-brown edging and come with the distinctive Bolduc ribbon. ‘If you shine UV light on the lid of an authentic Hermès box, rows of hidden logos and equestrian symbols appear,’ says Koffsky Parker.

Over the years, Hermès has issued a range of dust bags: the first were made from a light brown velveteen; then an orange cotton flannel was used. Current dust bags are made from a beige herringbone Tulle fabric. Not all Hermès bags on the secondary market come in their original bags and boxes, but if they do, look out for the features mentioned above.

‘Do your research and check you are buying from a trusted and reputable seller who can guarantee the authenticity of the model,’ says Koffsky Parker. ‘Make sure the seller is transparent about terms and conditions, and check that the price of the bag is in line with the market price. If it isn’t, it’s probably too good to be true.’

The authentication process can also be helped by documentation, which could be an original Hermès invoice or other paperwork. ‘Exotics, for instance, should also come with a permit for the skin,’ says Koffsky Parker. It’s important to note, however, that Hermès does not issue authenticity cards. ‘Any Hermès product sold with one is categorically fake,’ says the specialist.

Please note that while Christie’s does not offer professional authentication services on a standalone basis, all Hermès handbags offered through Christie’s are carefully reviewed by our specialists and are backed by the authenticity warranty described in the applicable Conditions of Sale

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