WEDNESDAY 30 MAY 2012
MORNING SESSION AT 10.30 AM
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese--Vintage 1959
1 bottle per lot
細節
AN OUTSTANDING PRIVATE COLLECTION OF THE FINEST WINES
I am particularly happy to have been invited to write the introduction, for several reasons:
First because of the consistently high quality of the wines; second because they are what I call 'pristine', wines purchased directly from the original estates and, after shipment, have rested undisturbed - until checked in the cellar by Christie's experienced staff and moved to Christie's warehouse prior to the sale. I am informed that all the bottles were in perfect condition.
Next - a sheer coincidence - my first ever visit to Germany was with my newly married wife in June 1956. We stayed in Bernkastel and visited every village, on a Vespa motor scooter, from the Saar and Ruwer down to Cochem and the confluence of the Rhine. We loved the steep valley and picturesque villages which, as an artist I drew, and of course tasted the wine and in particular appreciating the generous welcome of the vineyard owners we met. Since then I have met many more, both on the Mosel (but not on a Vespa!) and at the very well attended Grosser Ring tastings held annually in London at the residence of the German Ambassador.
Now for the wines. In the whole of my long and varied wine auction experience at Christie's I have never before encountered such a large quantity - some 800 bottles - of Mosels of such quality.
It is invidious to mention names, certainly not all. But, for me, outstanding - always - are the Scharzhofbergers. I first visited Scharzhof many years ago where I was gracefully received by the present Egon Müller's father. I thought, what a marvellous life. A beautiful manor house situated by a perfect vineyard site. I had the rare privilege of seeing the cellars, just across the yard. I recollect a small old door, steep stone steps and the sight and smell of wine in small oak barrels. Very nostaligic. Nowadays Egon Mü ller junior attends all the tastings, his height and his quiet modest manner as well as his outstanding wine are not to be missed. J.J. Prüm in the heart of the middle Mosel is of course a well respected name - but I have never visited his cellars. Forbidden. His charming daughter now represents J.J. at the London tastings.
Wilhelm Haag of Fritz Haag Dusemonder is an old friend and I have long admired his wine (confusingly another branch of the family owns the Weingut Willi Haag). I also see regularly the welcoming face of Hans-Joachim Zilliken at the annual London tastings of the Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken.
One should not judge wine by its label, but without question the most beautiful is that of Von Schubert's Maximum Grünhauser with exquisite quality wines to match. The most original and very distinctive label is that of Christoph Tyrell's Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg; a small but most attractive neck label and, of course, a wide range, all of outstanding quality.
The greatest attraction of the wines of the Mosel is the perfect balance of fruit and acidity, fragrant bouquet, delicate flavour, low alcoholic content and ranks of sweetness and quality from Spätlesen, through richer Auslesen (my favourites at any time of day but not with a sweet dessert), the glorious Beerenauslesen and concentrated, intensely sweet - rare and expensive TBA's.
Summing up, the advantage of these best-of-German wines is that one doesn't need to be an expert to enjoy them. However, they are so drinkable when young that they are rarely given bottle age needed to appreciate the fullness and subtleties of full maturity. The Spätlesen are best between 7 and 10 years old. The Auslesen 7 to 15, BA's and TBA's even longer.
This is why the wines of the Mosel in this sale, so carefully and patiently matured in perfect cellar conditions, represent a rare opportunity to buy and enjoy the accumulation of a true connoisseur's collection.
Michael Broadbent
Christie's, London
All Mosel wines in this collection are from Riesling grape.
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese--Vintage 1959
Tyrell
Excellent appearance and level
1 bottle per lot
I am particularly happy to have been invited to write the introduction, for several reasons:
First because of the consistently high quality of the wines; second because they are what I call 'pristine', wines purchased directly from the original estates and, after shipment, have rested undisturbed - until checked in the cellar by Christie's experienced staff and moved to Christie's warehouse prior to the sale. I am informed that all the bottles were in perfect condition.
Next - a sheer coincidence - my first ever visit to Germany was with my newly married wife in June 1956. We stayed in Bernkastel and visited every village, on a Vespa motor scooter, from the Saar and Ruwer down to Cochem and the confluence of the Rhine. We loved the steep valley and picturesque villages which, as an artist I drew, and of course tasted the wine and in particular appreciating the generous welcome of the vineyard owners we met. Since then I have met many more, both on the Mosel (but not on a Vespa!) and at the very well attended Grosser Ring tastings held annually in London at the residence of the German Ambassador.
Now for the wines. In the whole of my long and varied wine auction experience at Christie's I have never before encountered such a large quantity - some 800 bottles - of Mosels of such quality.
It is invidious to mention names, certainly not all. But, for me, outstanding - always - are the Scharzhofbergers. I first visited Scharzhof many years ago where I was gracefully received by the present Egon Müller's father. I thought, what a marvellous life. A beautiful manor house situated by a perfect vineyard site. I had the rare privilege of seeing the cellars, just across the yard. I recollect a small old door, steep stone steps and the sight and smell of wine in small oak barrels. Very nostaligic. Nowadays Egon Mü ller junior attends all the tastings, his height and his quiet modest manner as well as his outstanding wine are not to be missed. J.J. Prüm in the heart of the middle Mosel is of course a well respected name - but I have never visited his cellars. Forbidden. His charming daughter now represents J.J. at the London tastings.
Wilhelm Haag of Fritz Haag Dusemonder is an old friend and I have long admired his wine (confusingly another branch of the family owns the Weingut Willi Haag). I also see regularly the welcoming face of Hans-Joachim Zilliken at the annual London tastings of the Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken.
One should not judge wine by its label, but without question the most beautiful is that of Von Schubert's Maximum Grünhauser with exquisite quality wines to match. The most original and very distinctive label is that of Christoph Tyrell's Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg; a small but most attractive neck label and, of course, a wide range, all of outstanding quality.
The greatest attraction of the wines of the Mosel is the perfect balance of fruit and acidity, fragrant bouquet, delicate flavour, low alcoholic content and ranks of sweetness and quality from Spätlesen, through richer Auslesen (my favourites at any time of day but not with a sweet dessert), the glorious Beerenauslesen and concentrated, intensely sweet - rare and expensive TBA's.
Summing up, the advantage of these best-of-German wines is that one doesn't need to be an expert to enjoy them. However, they are so drinkable when young that they are rarely given bottle age needed to appreciate the fullness and subtleties of full maturity. The Spätlesen are best between 7 and 10 years old. The Auslesen 7 to 15, BA's and TBA's even longer.
This is why the wines of the Mosel in this sale, so carefully and patiently matured in perfect cellar conditions, represent a rare opportunity to buy and enjoy the accumulation of a true connoisseur's collection.
Michael Broadbent
Christie's, London
All Mosel wines in this collection are from Riesling grape.
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese--Vintage 1959
Tyrell
Excellent appearance and level
1 bottle per lot
榮譽呈獻
Edwin Vos