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Color and Ingenuity: The Collection of Lucille Coleman
A FINE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET DEUX FEUILLES' CLIP-BROOCH
細節
A FINE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET DEUX FEUILLES' CLIP-BROOCH
Designed as two leaves, calibré-cut rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), circa 1965, signed VCA, numbered
Size/Dimensions: 9.5 x 4.4 cm (3 ¾ x 1 ¾ in)
Gross Weight: 34.9 grams
Designed as two leaves, calibré-cut rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), circa 1965, signed VCA, numbered
Size/Dimensions: 9.5 x 4.4 cm (3 ¾ x 1 ¾ in)
Gross Weight: 34.9 grams
來源
Sotheby's, Geneva, 14 May 2003, Sale GE0303, Lot 259 (featured on the catalogue's cover)
出版
É. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels: When Elegance Meets Art, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, 2018, p. 119
É. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, 2012, p. 119
S. Coffin, Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, 2011, p. 131
É. Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, 2012, p. 119
S. Coffin, Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, 2011, p. 131
更多詳情
Unmistakable to the eye, exceptionally crafted by design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mysterieux’ is a delicate and precise technique of which only few jewelers have mastered. A testament to this skill, only pieces crafted by the best Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers earn the title ‘Mystery-set’. Often imitated, this unique style of setting colored stones was patented in the 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
榮譽呈獻
Rahul Kadakia
International Head of Jewellery