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Color and Ingenuity: The Collection of Lucille Coleman
AN ELEGANT VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET PAVOT' BROOCH
細節
AN ELEGANT VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'MYSTERY-SET PAVOT' BROOCH
Designed as a flower, calibré-cut sapphires, round and marquise-cut diamonds, platinum, circa 1965, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., numbered, stem detachable
Size/Dimensions: 7.6 x 5.3 cm (3 x 2 1⁄8 in)
Gross Weight: 40.0 grams
Designed as a flower, calibré-cut sapphires, round and marquise-cut diamonds, platinum, circa 1965, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., numbered, stem detachable
Size/Dimensions: 7.6 x 5.3 cm (3 x 2 1⁄8 in)
Gross Weight: 40.0 grams
來源
Sybil Harrington (1908 - 1999)
Christie's, New York, 19 October 1999, Sale 9304, Lot 837
Christie's, New York, 19 October 1999, Sale 9304, Lot 837
出版
Cf. S. Raulet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, Éditions du Regard, 1986, p. 208
Cf. N. Foulkes, Van Cleef and Arpels: Alhambra, Paris, Éditions Xavier Barral, 2018, p. 36
Cf. F. Falluel, L. Schiffer, Palais Galliera, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris-Musées, 1992, p. 163
Cf. N. Foulkes, Van Cleef and Arpels: Alhambra, Paris, Éditions Xavier Barral, 2018, p. 36
Cf. F. Falluel, L. Schiffer, Palais Galliera, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris-Musées, 1992, p. 163
更多詳情
Lots 25 and 26 from Mrs. Coleman's collection were purchased at Christie's in October 1999 by Lucille from the collection of Sybil B. Harrington.
Having grown up in Amarillo, Texas, Sybil Harrington (née Buckingham) cultivated an enduring passion for the arts. From a young age, she was captivated by music and dance – an affection that ultimately led her to the grandeur of opera. She was especially fascinated by the Metropolitan Opera’s early radio broadcasts, which ignited a profound appreciation for the company and its artistry.
Just as Mrs. Coleman gave to initiatives and institutions that she was passionate about, Mrs. Harrington was dedicated to the Metropolitan Opera. Her many contributions to the institution eventually totaled in approximately $30 million. In recognition of her unparalleled generosity, the Metropolitan Opera named its main auditorium the Sybil B. Harrington Auditorium in 1987.
Her philanthropic spirit extended far beyond the arts. In 1951, she and her husband, Donald Harrington, a prominent figure in Texas’ booming oil and gas industry, established the Don and Sybil Harrington Foundation. Through this foundation, Sybil supported a broad range of civic and charitable causes over four decades. Her philanthropic legacy includes support for organizations such as the Boy Scouts of America, the Harrington Arthritis Research Foundation in Phoenix, and the Deafness Research Foundation in New York.
In 1999, a selection from her jewelry collection was offered at Christie’s, showcasing pieces from some of the most prominent jewelry houses of the 20th century. Among them were exquisite examples of Van Cleef & Arpels’ 'Mystery-set' designs, which she particularly treasured. Lots 25 and 26 are exceptional examples, and she frequently wore them together.
Lucille Coleman, like Sybil Harrington, was a women of innate elegance and unwavering generosity, leaving her own legacy of philanthropy and style that shines as brightly as her jewelry collection. Lucille’s refined taste and discerning eye are reflected throughout her jewels, and it is only fitting that she acquired Lots 25 and 26 for her extraordinary collection.
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Unmistakable to the eye, exceptionally crafted by design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mysterieux’ is a delicate and precise technique of which only few jewelers have mastered. A testament to this skill, only pieces crafted by the best Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers earn the title ‘Mystery-set’. Often imitated, this unique style of setting colored stones was patented in the 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
Having grown up in Amarillo, Texas, Sybil Harrington (née Buckingham) cultivated an enduring passion for the arts. From a young age, she was captivated by music and dance – an affection that ultimately led her to the grandeur of opera. She was especially fascinated by the Metropolitan Opera’s early radio broadcasts, which ignited a profound appreciation for the company and its artistry.
Just as Mrs. Coleman gave to initiatives and institutions that she was passionate about, Mrs. Harrington was dedicated to the Metropolitan Opera. Her many contributions to the institution eventually totaled in approximately $30 million. In recognition of her unparalleled generosity, the Metropolitan Opera named its main auditorium the Sybil B. Harrington Auditorium in 1987.
Her philanthropic spirit extended far beyond the arts. In 1951, she and her husband, Donald Harrington, a prominent figure in Texas’ booming oil and gas industry, established the Don and Sybil Harrington Foundation. Through this foundation, Sybil supported a broad range of civic and charitable causes over four decades. Her philanthropic legacy includes support for organizations such as the Boy Scouts of America, the Harrington Arthritis Research Foundation in Phoenix, and the Deafness Research Foundation in New York.
In 1999, a selection from her jewelry collection was offered at Christie’s, showcasing pieces from some of the most prominent jewelry houses of the 20th century. Among them were exquisite examples of Van Cleef & Arpels’ 'Mystery-set' designs, which she particularly treasured. Lots 25 and 26 are exceptional examples, and she frequently wore them together.
Lucille Coleman, like Sybil Harrington, was a women of innate elegance and unwavering generosity, leaving her own legacy of philanthropy and style that shines as brightly as her jewelry collection. Lucille’s refined taste and discerning eye are reflected throughout her jewels, and it is only fitting that she acquired Lots 25 and 26 for her extraordinary collection.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Unmistakable to the eye, exceptionally crafted by design, the ‘Mystery-set’ or ‘Serti Mysterieux’ is a delicate and precise technique of which only few jewelers have mastered. A testament to this skill, only pieces crafted by the best Van Cleef & Arpels jewelers earn the title ‘Mystery-set’. Often imitated, this unique style of setting colored stones was patented in the 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision - each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.
The Estate of Lucille E. Coleman, featuring one of the most important collections of Mystery-set jewelry, was thoughtfully curated over Coleman’s storied lifetime. A true collector in every sense, the collection includes nine jewels which highlight this iconic setting style with exceptional scale and gemstone quality. These classic floral and leaf motifs, and a bespoke sapphire flag brooch bearing the initial ‘M’ in rubies, is certain to catch the eye of any Van Cleef & Arpels collector and enthusiasts alike.
榮譽呈獻
Rahul Kadakia
International Head of Jewellery