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拍品專文
For over a century, the panther has endured as a timeless and iconic motif for the house of Cartier. It was not until 1914 when Louis Cartier requested an invitation for his jewelry exhibition and commissioned artist George Barbier to create what soon pioneered an integral part of the maison. The elegant invitation displayed Lady With a Panther, a woman in a white gown, draped with pearls and a black panther resting at her feet. This illustration was the initial moment clients of the French house saw the now iconic cat. In that same year, the spotted pattern was featured on a lady's wristwatch created by diamonds and onyx mimicking the big cat’s fur. The exotic creature took Paris by storm – a sign of elegance and fierce femininity.
In 1933, style icon Jeanne Toussaint was appointed as Artistic Director of High Jewelry and would soon make the panther an integral part of the maison’s identity. Louis Cartier fondly nicknamed Toussaint ’La Panthère’ for her long panther fur coat, fierce determination and intellect. In a time where it was rare to find women in such prominent roles in the industry, Toussaint quickly proved why she deserved this position.
Jeanne Toussaint was born in Belgium and moved to Paris at the height of the Belle Époque. Her style and charisma made her a fixture in society circles as Louis Cartier quickly recognized her creative talent. He invited Toussaint to join the maison around 1918, first starting in leather goods, then promoting her to head of the silver department before handing her the creative reins of the house in 1933.
With a vision to bring the poised panther design to life, Touissant and her creative team would visit the Vincennes Zoo to study the anatomy of the animal to perfect the silhouette as a jewel. In 1948, at the request of the Duke of Windsor, the first three-dimensional Cartier ‘Panthère’ jewel was created for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, with a second extraordinary panther piece purchased the following year.
Nearly a decade later, Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan would commission the maison to create a suite of jewelry for his first wife Nina Dyer which included the first double headed panther bangle executed with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds. Other icons drawn to the feline-themed jewel include María Félix, Daisy Fellowes and Barbara Hutton.
Today, the panther continues to amaze as an indelible symbol of Cartier Savoir-Faire, iconic historical provenance, and fierce femininity. Through abstract or figurative design, Cartier continues to capture the attention of enthusiasts and collectors with these remarkable panther designs.
In 1933, style icon Jeanne Toussaint was appointed as Artistic Director of High Jewelry and would soon make the panther an integral part of the maison’s identity. Louis Cartier fondly nicknamed Toussaint ’La Panthère’ for her long panther fur coat, fierce determination and intellect. In a time where it was rare to find women in such prominent roles in the industry, Toussaint quickly proved why she deserved this position.
Jeanne Toussaint was born in Belgium and moved to Paris at the height of the Belle Époque. Her style and charisma made her a fixture in society circles as Louis Cartier quickly recognized her creative talent. He invited Toussaint to join the maison around 1918, first starting in leather goods, then promoting her to head of the silver department before handing her the creative reins of the house in 1933.
With a vision to bring the poised panther design to life, Touissant and her creative team would visit the Vincennes Zoo to study the anatomy of the animal to perfect the silhouette as a jewel. In 1948, at the request of the Duke of Windsor, the first three-dimensional Cartier ‘Panthère’ jewel was created for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, with a second extraordinary panther piece purchased the following year.
Nearly a decade later, Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan would commission the maison to create a suite of jewelry for his first wife Nina Dyer which included the first double headed panther bangle executed with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds. Other icons drawn to the feline-themed jewel include María Félix, Daisy Fellowes and Barbara Hutton.
Today, the panther continues to amaze as an indelible symbol of Cartier Savoir-Faire, iconic historical provenance, and fierce femininity. Through abstract or figurative design, Cartier continues to capture the attention of enthusiasts and collectors with these remarkable panther designs.