From Bulgari to JAR and Cartier: stunning jewels offered in Geneva

‘The Bulgari Pink’

Pink diamonds owe their highly desirable colour to rare distortions in their crystal lattices while the stones are forming deep within the Earth’s crust. This 24-carat fancy intense pink emerald-cut diamond by Bulgari has what Geneva Jewellery specialist Louisa Haniel-Jackson describes as ‘a remarkable hue’. It has also been identified as having come from the Golconda mines in India, famously the source of diamonds of the highest quality. ‘The diamonds recovered from Golconda have characteristics that set them apart from all others,’ says the specialist. ‘They are often described as possessing a unique “water-clear” appearance and have captivated connoisseurs for centuries with their luminous quality and crystalline transparency.’

The fact that the stone comes to auction for the first time after more than 70 years in the same family collection only adds to its desirability. ‘According to family lore,’ says Haniel-Jackson, ‘the rough diamond was acquired in India in the 1950s by the current owner’s great-grandfather before being entrusted to Bulgari, who transformed it into the elegant ring we see today.’

An Art Nouveau enamel and glass pendant necklace by René Lalique

René Lalique is widely regarded as the master of Art Nouveau jewellery. Greatly inspired by the natural world, he is synonymous with asymmetric, flowing compositions featuring organic forms such as flowers, leaves, insects and animals. ‘He revolutionised jewellery design at the turn of the 20th century by prioritising artistic creativity over the intrinsic value of materials,’ says the specialist, who adds that he favoured exotic and often fragile materials, particularly moulded glass and enamel.

‘Lalique’s use of moulded glass allowed him to achieve sculptural effects that would have been difficult or prohibitively expensive in precious gemstones,’ says Haniel-Jackson. He was also an exceptionally accomplished enameller. ‘The delicate application of enamel adds subtle colour gradations and texture to the petals, further illustrating Lalique’s creativity and technical skill,’ notes the specialist.

Another René Lalique piece in the sale is a rare matching Art Nouveau glass, enamel and diamond necklace and ring set. Both are decorated with female figures, another defining motif of Art Nouveau jewellery. In addition to the natural world, Lalique frequently drew inspiration from mythology, allegory and symbolism, using the female form to represent themes such as beauty, fertility and nature.

‘The delicately modelled female figures embody the Art Nouveau ideal of the femme fleur, or flower woman, where the boundaries between woman and nature dissolve into a single harmonious design,’ explains Haniel-Jackson. ‘The use of translucent carved glass allows the figures to appear almost ethereal, as though emerging from light — a technical and artistic effect that became one of Lalique’s signatures.’

Lalique’s depictions of women became some of the most recognisable images of the Art Nouveau movement, and remain among the most sought-after by collectors today. ‘It’s increasingly rare to see original René Lalique jewels at auction, because many surviving examples are in museums and important private collections,’ says the specialist. ‘This is a very exciting opportunity for collectors.’

A Cartier coloured sapphire and diamond ‘Jacinthe’ ring

This ‘Jacinthe’ flower ring by Cartier features diamond-set petals and soft cabochon and polished pink and purple sapphires at its centre. ‘It has a striking sculptural design,’ says Haniel-Jackson, adding that she’s particularly drawn to the visual contrast between the brilliant-cut diamonds and the sapphires. ‘Its pronounced three-dimensional form gives it real presence on the hand.’

A pair of Bhagat bangles

Founded in 1991 in Mumbai, Bhagat is known for producing rare, handcrafted jewels combining India’s rich gem-setting heritage with a distinctly modern, architectural sensibility. Bhagat uses platinum rather than traditional yellow gold, allowing for near-invisible or minimalist settings that make gemstones appear as if they are floating. These bangles exemplify the house’s signature approach.

‘The design is characterised by its fluid movement and architectural form, with the diamonds arranged in a dynamic pattern that appears to ripple around the wrist,’ says the specialist, adding that the pair format reflects the Indian tradition of wearing matching bangles. ‘Despite the complexity of their construction, they are, as connoisseurs would expect of Bhagat pieces, extremely delicate and light on the wrist.’

A sapphire and diamond ring

Kashmir sapphires are coveted for their rarity as well as for their deep, velvety blue colour, which appears luminous in any light. This cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire, weighing 23.72 carats, is flanked by baguette-cut diamonds, and set in a platinum ring.

‘Kashmir sapphires above 20 carats with strong colour and clarity are exceptionally rare on the market,’ says Haniel-Jackson, who explains that their rarity stems from the fact that the Kashmir mines in the Zanskar Range of the north-western Himalayas were only in operation for a brief period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. ‘This stone has an extraordinary saturation of blue and a softness and depth that connoisseurs regard as the hallmark of Kashmir sapphires.’

A pair of JAR earrings

For Haniel-Jackson, these earrings, with finely carved cameos in pavé-set surrounds, encapsulate JAR’s daring way with colour, texture and proportion. ‘The contrast between the warm terracotta tones of the agate cameo and the cool pale-grey onyx cameo creates a compelling visual dialogue,’ she says.

They also demonstrate the jeweller’s ability to create pieces that blend classical and contemporary influences to dazzling effect. ‘Rather than treating the cameos as relics of the past, JAR reimagines them in dramatic pavé-set surrounds, transforming an ancient art form into a bold contemporary jewel,’ says the specialist.

A Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and sapphire brooch

At the heart of this 1960s brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels is an oval-shaped Ceylon sapphire weighing 43.94 carats. The sapphire’s vivid blue hue is accentuated by concentric tiers of baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds.

‘The stone’s architectural setting and bold design reflect the matchless glamour of the period,’ says the specialist.

Magnificent Jewels Including the Bulgari Pink is offered on 10 November 2026, and on view 5-10 November at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva. Also on view are Exceptional Jewels & Objects of Elegance: A Connoisseur’s Collection — part I (10 November), part II of the collection (live for bidding 5-17 November) and Jewels Online (5-18 November)