How the Fendi Baguette became a cult classic

The world’s first ‘It’ bag, the Fendi Baguette has seen over 1,000 iterations since its 1997 debut. Compact and rectangular, the bag was inspired by the eponymous French bread and the custom of carrying it tucked under one arm. With its front flap, FF logo clasp and short shoulder strap, it remains instantly recognisable despite an ever-changing façade: it comes in fur and silk, with hand beading or sequins, tassels, bold prints and smooth leather.

Over nearly 30 years, the Baguette has developed a cult following and appeared on the arm of on-screen icons like Carrie Bradshaw and superstars like Elizabeth Taylor. As Fendi continues to reinterpret the design, it retains a playful timelessness.

‘Collectors looking at these vintage Baguettes are attracted to the rare and archival as well as the classic Fendi patterns,’ says Kiara Cooper, Specialist, Handbags & Accessories at Christie’s. ‘There are so many variations, and they feel one-of-a-kind because of the detailing on each and every bag.’ As its creator, Silvia Venturini Fendi, has mused, the Baguette is ‘a manifesto of identity and individuality, because it is always the same but always different.’

Here, we spotlight five must-have Baguettes on offer at Christie’s in New York as part of Luxury Week this June.

Elizabeth Taylor’s sparkling florals

This floral print Baguette was once owned by Elizabeth Taylor, Hollywood royalty and long-time devotee of Fendi. Crimson blooms explode across a crisp ivory background, while deep black foliage gives the composition structure and contrast. ‘It also features discreet details of tiny crystals that give the floral print a dewdrop appearance,’ says Cooper. ‘It’s the kind of bag we associate with Fendi and is representative of the limited-edition pieces collectors covet.’

Rainbow reflections

This black and rainbow Zucchino Baguette is a lesson in the tension between restraint and excess. At first glance the material appears black, but as it catches the light it erupts into iridescent colour. Flashes of violet, emerald, magenta and more are woven throughout the surface, drawing the eye to the iconic double FF monogram, which appears in two main variations: the larger, bolder Zucca motif and the smaller, more understated Zucchino pattern. Introduced by Karl Lagerfeld shortly after he joined the brand in 1965, FF stands for ‘Fun Fur.’

‘These metallic ribbons of colour introduce a very fun twist on the classic Zucchino framework,’ says Cooper. ‘It’s more tonal, which works well for someone who doesn’t want a loud logo but is still looking for a bag that reads Fendi.’

A shimmering vintage edition

A study in texture and contrast, this Baguette is equal parts disco opulence and downtown polish, with thousands of hand-applied sequins in blocks of black, white, silver and beige. The surface shifts with every step but is softened by a sleek leather strap, tiger-eye buckle and sterling silver hardware. ‘This dates to the 1990s, one of the most coveted eras of the Baguette,’ Cooper explains. ‘It illustrates a lot of the hallmarks of that period, including a silk lining and more rectangular shape.’ Playful yet restrained, it's an early example of the Baguette that is at once archival and strikingly modern.

Texture-driven luxury

Fendi was originally established as a Roman fur and leather atelier in 1925, and this lamb fur Baguette reconnects with the brand’s heritage. The texture is the first element to catch the eye. Plush fur is dyed a striking orange with naturalistic dark spotting scattered across the surface. A pale leather stripe through the centre introduces balance, furthered by the sharp silver hardware. ‘I love this bag,’ says Cooper. ‘The spotted fur and vibrant colour scream Y2K — think Sex and the City — when these bags were becoming wildly popular. It’s also very rare; I’ve never seen one quite like this.’

Elizabeth Taylor’s classic silhouette

Another highlight from Elizabeth Taylor’s coveted collection, this brown leather Baguette is one of the most refined expressions of the bag. Made from Cuoio Romano, the leather traditionally associated with Fendi, it emphasises the brand’s history and artisanal roots. The Selleria stitching, Fendi’s signature hand-sewn saddle stitch, is another notable marker of craftsmanship. ‘Though subtler than some other designs, this Baguette should not be overlooked,’ notes Cooper. ‘The Selleria stitching and Cuoio leather are hallmarks of the brand’s most precious pieces. Paired with sterling silver hardware, it’s the most luxurious iteration.’